Where sugar meets spice | sultanahmet1.com
Intrigued by Ottoman flavours, Caroline Baum rolls up her sleeves and takes a cooking class in Istanbul.
Turkish delights ... a market stall.
I've just been handed a scimitar. At least that's what it looks like - a weapon that might have been used to lop off disloyal heads at the sultan's court in the nearby Topkapi Palace. It turns out to be the Turkish equivalent of a mezzaluna: a crescent-shaped blade, called a zirh, very large and heavy, which takes some getting used to.
The chef and teacher, Feyzi Yildirim, shows me how to rock it from side to side vigorously and then points to a mountain of fresh dill, parsley and coriander. He wants them chopped finely and I have already discovered that he's pretty exacting, even though he speaks no English. Pointing, at times, can be an eloquent method of expressing disapproval: earlier I was asked to pound and knead a bucket of salted and finely chopped onions to extract their juices. When my hands are knuckle-deep in liquid, Yildirim insists that it is not enough. But he does have a neat trick for removing the smell of onion from my hands: a quick rub with a cut lemon.
I've joined a hands-on, half-day class at Cooking Alaturka, around the corner from the Blue Mosque in Istanbul's historic precinct of Sultanahmet. There are seven others in our group and an even gender spread. We're preparing a five-course lunch of traditional Ottoman home cooking and, what's more, we've a schedule to stick to. The school, based on the model of the Cordon Bleu, is open to the public for lunch.
Alaturka is the brainchild of a determined expatriate Dutch woman and former hotelier, Eveline Zoutendijk. Trained at Cordon Bleu in Paris and after a career in hotel management in New York, she fell in love with Istanbul, learnt the fiendishly difficult language and settled here 12 years ago. Briskly efficient, Zoutendijk runs the classes herself, translating Yildirim's instructions, adding her own hints, juggling pans from stove to oven. She also has a great list of recommended restaurants, which helps visitors navigate a bewildering array of options. On request, she leads tours of produce markets, avoiding the tourist traps such as the Spice Market.
Zoutendijk has studied the subtleties and diversity of Turkish food to devise the seven menus in her school's repertoire. "I love the variety of fresh bold flavours, the foraged ingredients in salads and mezze, the kebab-house culture, the sharing of dishes, the strong emphasis on vegetables such as okra, which some of our clients are a bit unsure about; the regional variations in cheeses," she says. "Turkey is justifiably proud of being one of only seven countries that can feed itself."
All her clients "wants to do something with eggplant" and some are "a bit unsure about the yoghurt soup until they make it. When they look at the list of ingredients, their faces fall but when they taste it ... big smiles." She does not teach with seafood ("too expensive") or bread, because she doesn't have the right oven for it, and she says she doesn't have the right ventilation for grilling kebabs. Students receive recipes to keep, which means they can concentrate on technique instead of scribbling notes.
We're making a soup of red lentil, bulgur, mint and red pepper that is quick and great for freezing; imam bayildi, a classic stuffed eggplant dish that is good hot or cold; dill and cheese pancakes; stuffed vine leaves; and syrup-soaked biscuits topped with the most vibrantly green, fresh pistachios I've seen.
There's plenty to do: we each find a spot in the compact kitchen to roll out dough, beat a batter or dice tomatoes. All of us have trouble making the eggplant boats that we are going to stuff and braise. We either make them too deep or too shallow and we score them incorrectly on the inside, which means they will collapse while cooking. We are all surprised at how easy it is to stuff vine leaves once you know the folding and rolling secret, which is just like learning to make hospital corners in bed-making.
Our favourite is making a round ball of dough and flinging it hard on to a baking tin, before pressing a fresh hazelnut on top ("no fingerprints!" urges Yildirim). This is the first stage of our ultra-sweet dessert. Zoutendijk cuts down the sugar in this and most recipes by more than a third to accommodate non-Turkish palates, but it is still sweeter than we are used to.
There's a moment of panic when people walk in off the street for lunch and we realise we're running late but we set up a proper production line to plate and garnish. Yildirim is a stickler for presentation and we are a bit sloppy. But when we sit down, it's with a real sense of achievement.
Once we've left Alaturka, we become bolder about what we eat during the rest of our time in Istanbul. We sample salep from a street vendor, a hot, milky drink made from dried orchid root. We find slivers of Turkish pastrami, called pastirma, and sharp, herby cheese from the Kurdish town of Van at a classy deli called Namli, behind the Spice Market. We long to cook the sea bass displayed with its red gills turned out as proof of freshness in the markets at the Galata bridge. At a fantastic lunch place called Ciya, on the Asian side of the city, we choose a salad of braised nettles and a strange, chewy dessert of mastic, the resin that was the original ingredient in chewing gum. Our palates recognise the sweet-and-sour blend of pomegranate molasses and cinnamon, the creaminess of fresh chick peas. And when we're peckish after a morning of mosques, there's always a simit stall selling the Turkish version of a pretzel covered in toasted sesame seeds.
Getting there
Malaysia Airlines flies to Istanbul for about $1830 via Kuala Lumpur (8 hours and 11 hours). Qatar Airways flies for about $1756 via Doha (14 hours and 5 hours). (Fares are low-season return from Sydney and Melbourne including tax.) Australians require a visa for Turkey, which can be bought on arrival for about $US20 ($23).
Cooking there
Cooking Alaturka, at 72a Akbiyik Caddesi, Sultanahmet, has a three-hour class for €60 ($95) a person, including five recipes and a sit-down lunch with wine. See cookingalaturka.com.
(The Sidney Morning Herald - 13 Feb 2010)
Shopping and Sultans besides the Bosphorus
Istanbul happens to be the Capital of Culture for the year 2010. Hence, the city is a must to be visited and explored by any visitor. Taking a first visit in the city of Istanbul, we had decided to stay in the hotel the Ciragan Palace Kempinski, which is on the European shore of the river Bosphorus.
And the time of our visit to Istanbul was when Istanbul was holding its annual marathon. So, the traffic was quite hectic and traveling by cabs was proving to be a costly affair for us because the hotel where we were staying was at some distance away from the areas of sightseeing.
Nonetheless, our efforts( financially, too) proved their worth as we entered the delightfully colored and decorated images of the national flag, the celebrations joined by the elated football fans and the presence of Mustafa Kemal Ataturk, the founder of the republic of Turkey.
But, the enjoyment that we were experiencing was brought to a screeching half when the sudden brake of the cab by the driver compelled us to get down even though we were yet at a distance of hundred yards from our hotel. And to make things take even an ugly turn, the driver asked to be given another L40 for his fare since the 50 Lira note that we had handed over to him was just a five Lira note.
That was not the end of my journey on that fateful night. And the fact that I was completely alien with the local language complicated the matter for me. As if that was not enough, he wanted to have another note of 50 lira. Although, this rude and treacherous behavior of the cab driver made me notify the issue with the hotel authorities, however, I still did not went forward to lodge an official complaint with the police station.
Once back in our own country, the US, my partner Emma read about the 10 biggest blunders to be avoided while travelling. The feature which was published in the New York Times also mentioned the trick so peculiar with many, if not all, Istanbul cab drivers, who drop the L 50 handed over by the passenger under their feet and show a L5 to harass the traveler. With the mention of this trick also came an advice to report any such issue to the concerned authorities in Istanbul as they are aware of such happenings with the tourists in Istanbul.
However, barring such few incidents, there seems to be no solid reason for any traveler or tourist to put off his visit to Istanbul which is indeed one of the most fascinating destinations thriving with several historical monuments and shopping sprees to be enjoyed for. Istanbul is not just Western-friendly but also a Muslim-friendly city, and boasts of several great gems into its periphery including Ottoman palaces, Turkish hamams, shopping bazaars and its mosques which all join hands to make Istanbul a city to be explored by all visitors, at least once in their life-time.
With numerous ancient sights dotting its geographical map, the year 2010’s Capital of Culture is an international and fast city which boasts of modern shopping bazaars, big hotels, restaurants, bars, nightclubs and art galleries. So, now you know the reason why Istanbul is a beautiful blend of history amalgamating with modernity.
The hotel (The Ciragan Palace)where I was staying during my visit to this modern and traditional city called Istanbul happens to be the one and only hotel on the European shore of the Bosphorus having a five-star rating. Indeed, with several gardens, shops, ballroom of its own and even helipads, the hotel deserves the rating it has been given. Staying in the master suite will cost you L 30,000 for each night (£12,300). However, if your pocket does not allow you to spend so lavishly, then you can go in for standard rooms which are also fitted with all the luxury amenities required.
The good thing about this hotel is that it’s located just next to a former harem which now functions as a high school. There are several buildings in Istanbul which have an interesting history to relate. For example, the Four Seasons hotel was once a notorious jail.
Talking about the journey in the cab the night when we were harassed by the cab driver, we found ourselves to be trapped in the marathon that engulfed and spread wide across the road. Hence, to fight our tiredness, we had our lunch at the Gazebo Lounge and the dinner at the Tugra restaurant. The Tugra restaurant provides some exotic views of the river Bosphorus although it provides only Ottoman cuisine. The waiters were always there making the whole visit a bit less relaxing.
However, it was only later that we came to know about the varied and some of the most glorious varieties of cuisines available in Istanbul, including the stand-up lunches offered by several street carts and other eating places. We were told that while in Istanbul, we could eat like the sultans and enjoy almost every variety among which never to be missed included hot figs and balik ekmet (fish in sandwich).
Istanbul’s history proves that it offers a wide variety of Indian cuisine for locals and tourists alike. The best Indian restaurant in the city of Sultanahmet happens to be Dubb. If you want to have the best tables, just climb up the stairs. However, a word of caution for heavy drinkers. Do not drink beyond your capacity or you may be at the risk of behaving in a sober manner. Candlelight dinner is to be enjoyed best when accompanied by gazing at the floodlit historical landmarks of Istanbul including Aya Sofya and the Blue Mosque.
But, the fact is that the historical gems of Istanbul including the Blue Mosque and the Aya Sofya are no less magnificent even in the broad day light. Aya Sofya was first a church, then converted into a mosque and presently functions as a museum. You need to pay an entrance fee of L20 for making your way into the museum. And you will be spell cast by the imagery representing both the Muslim and the Christian religions together at the same time. This monument was built in the 16th century and represents beautiful mingling of twin cultures in the history of Istanbul.
The harmony factor prevalent in this building was proved by the people from various cultures and religions enjoying the beauty of this place. Some also ventured upstairs to enjoy the view from the gallery at the first floor. We also came across some women dressed traditionally who went towards the Weeping Column and could be seen pushing their hands towards it. As a famous legend has it, a St. Gregory (a miracle worker) appeared at the Weeping Column and since then, it is said that this column has curative properties.
Just a few steps away is the famous Topkapi Palace which has the distinction of having served as the political and spiritual hub of Turkey for several centuries. Amidst the crowd having a sun bath out in the sun, some cats too joined them to play in the manicured lawns of the palace. In Istanbul, cats enjoy a special place in the life of locals since they are considered to bring good fortune.
Topkapi Palace has so much to offer for a visitor that it can hardly be seen and enjoyed by any visitor in a single visit. So you must plan for your visit to this palace to at least be of two days to see a spree of courtyards and buildings waiting to be explored and enjoyed. While some are the domestic buildings of the Ottoman sultans like the bakeries or kitchens, others are state business buildings.
The not to be missed include the Topkapi Dagger, and the Spoonmaker’s Diamond which is the fifth biggest in the world. You will be delighted to find religious relics like the Saucepan of Abraham and the Footprint of Prophet Mohammed.
The Egyptian Bazaar
If you think that you know the Egyptian Bazaar of Istanbul quite well, then you are probably mistaken. Because you will need at least two-hours to find various fantastic and unique offerings that the Egyptian Bazaar has in store for all of you.
The Egyptian Bazaar (Spice Bazaar) ---
Egypt Bazaar ( Spice Bazaar ) in Istanbul Eminonu
You think that you have all the relevant knowledge about this market and its different aspects. But the fact is that it is not true. Those of you who thought there were five doors of this market when it was started in 1666 are wrong in their assumption. The truth is that this bazaar has not five but six doors, each of them opening in a different direction and unfolding before you an altogether different world. The point where the two wings of this L-shaped market meet is known as the ‘praying square’. It got its name because in the earlier times, the shopkeepers of this market used to perform their prayers together at this point. And talking about the offerings in this market, well, it has almost anything to just about everything under the sun from spices, clothes, theater puppets to several other things that you won’t be able to find anywhere else. And this diverse range of things available in this market sometimes astonishes not just the travelers but even the shop owners of this market.
The Flower Market---
Situated just close to the famous Egyptian Bazaar, the Flower Market is a colorful market which seems to be carrying on the tradition of the ancient imperial garden belonging to the Ottoman period. It sells different varieties of plants and their seeds along with several different species of animals including iguanas, peacocks and parrots, to name a few. If you feel tired and want to have a short break in your journey, there are several open-air cafes all around this market to serve you hot simmering cup of tea to revitalize your energies.
The New Mosque---
Although, the name of this mosque is the ‘New Mosque’, but the fact is that is nearly 300-years-old mosque depicting a vibrant example of the exemplary architecture of the Classical period. In fact, this mosque happens to be the last and the only surviving examples of the Ottoman mosques belonging to the Classical Period. The mosque boasts of exotic interiors and decorations belonging to the late 17th century period and you can find Ottoman tiles adding elegance to this beautiful monumental structure. A huge dome rests on four grand columns.
Tomb of the Sultan Mother---
It happens to be the biggest dynastic graveyards of Istanbul located near the entry to Bankalar Caddesi. This mausoleum is the resting place for five sultans along with their wives and the crown princes. It was made in 1663 and has 47 windows and mother-of-pearl entrance. It is worth visiting at least once by every visitor to Istanbul.
The Imperial Pavilion----
Situated just next to the New Mosque, this mysterious structure rises over just one arch. The interiors of this building are decorated with beautiful stained glass, Iznik tiles, wooden doors having carvings and stencil work to add extra charm. Although, the restoration work of this building is now complete, but, it can be viewed only from outside.
The Bazaar Restaurants---
The restaurants here serve various traditional dishes of Istanbul. however, the most favorite among the locals and the tourists is the Turkish coffee garnished with gum mastic and hazelnuts to give you superb flavor and mind blowing taste.
