Unknown Hagia Sophia Museum of Sultanahmet Istanbul
Istanbul is home to several churches belonging to the Byzantine architecture and Hagia Sophia happens to be the most significant Byzantine churches. Hagia Sophia in Greek (Ayasofya in Turkish) happens as the universally acknowledged and the most visited museums in the world.
In 537 during the Eastern Roman Empire, Emperor Justinian the Great commissioned two architects of Anatolia for construction of Hagia Sophia over the ruins of an earlier building. The materials used in construction of this magnificent building were brought from places including Rome, Ephesus, Athens and Delphi. After the completion of the church, Justinian the Great exclaimed with joy saying- ‘Solomon, I have outdone thee!’.
The fact that architects from the world over envy this exquisite monument and have made vain attempts to imitate it very well explain its importance. It is, undoubtedly, stupendous and surviving example of Byzantine architectural excellence and hence, has invited curious visitors from the world over. Let’s together discover several aspects of Hagia Sophia that have remained undiscovered hitherto.
The Hagia Sophia church happens to be the third church built on the site where the first two churches were built earlier. Earlier, it was known not by the its present name of Hagia Sophia (Holy Wisdom) but as the Great Church (Mega Ekklesia) for quite a long period.
The Hagia Sophia was an Eastern Roman Patriarchate church, the foundations of which can still be seen today by any of the visitors. The Holy Synod convened in the chambers of the church. The Hagia Sophia also has two other buildings apart from the main building. One of these buildings is considered to be a baptismal. While the building on the northeast was used as a treasury building, the other on the southwest is believed to be a baptismal.
Several great works of art in the Hagia Sophia belong to different periods and ancient civilizations including the pagan period of civilization in Anatolia, the Eastern Roman period and several other civilizations from the Middle East (specifically the 2nd century B.C.). Some of these beautiful artifacts include water vessels, columns and marbles belonging to the Hellenistic period.
As the city of Byzantium had a strong Roman influence during the construction of the church of Hagia Sophia, the monument is an amalgamation of the magnificent Roman architecture and the standard church architecture of the Byzantine period.
Hagia Sophia was a lodging place for nuns, priests, monks and officials of the Patriarchate. The garden in the Hagia Sophia has a small mausoleum and three big mausoleums where five sultans belonging to the Ottoman period rest, two in the baptismal building and three in the main building of the church. The reason why individual mausoleums were not made for sultans is because all of them had been deposed.
The Hagia Sophia also has two public fountains, a huge central pool, a big fountain in triangular shape, an observatory, a primary school, a religious college (a medrese), two sun dials, a soup kitchen and a small wall fountain.
A number of items from the Hagia Sophia were stolen and smuggled outside Turkey in different periods. These can be seen at the museums in European countries.
To provide added strength and greater stability to the Hagia Sophia and to prevent it from collapsing, Mimar Sinan, the famous skilled architect of the Ottoman period, erected big buttresses around the church.
It happens to be the most ancient, biggest and most significant mosques belonging to the Ottoman period where several state functions and important imperial ceremonies were held. It was the seat of Patriarch of Constantinople for nearly 900 years. It was here that the crowning ceremonies of various Byzantine emperors were organized. The Patriarch received the king and placed the crown at the special spot earmarked for the event.
The courtyard has a pool-cum-fountain (sadirvan) which is the largest in the Ottoman architecture. One can see intricately crafted doorknockers made from cast iron and inscribed with the words ‘Ya Fettah’ (‘Opener of All Ways’) in this church. It was in Hagia Sophia that an angel’s mosaic face was uncovered and presented to visitors in July 2009. It is here that the huge water vessels with antique marble carvings brought by Sultan Murat III from Pergamum.
The dome of the church was damaged and collapsed following an earthquake in 558 while its replacement also subsequently collapsed in 563. The dome also suffered some partial collapses in 989 and again in 1346. The apex of the dome of Hagia Sophia has an inscription from a Koranic verse which means –‘Allah is the light of the earth and the sky’ and is considered to be the highest mosque inscriptions of all times.
It was here that a library was built in the main building and a sultan offered thousands of bound volumes to help common masses attain religious education and assist researchers in their efforts.
The mosque was the place for providing mass education to the people in separate rooms during the Ottoman period. Nearly ten classes were held in separate rooms where elective courses were taught for the first time in the history thus paving the way for providing ‘open education’ to the masses.
Şunu daha büyük bir haritada görüntüle: Hagia Sophia
City break in Istanbul at Sultanahmet
By any standards, Istanbullus are proud of their city. And since you can hardly walk down a street in Sultanhamet without falling over some Byzantine or Ottoman relic they do have a few things to boast about.
But there’s more to Istanbul than antiquity and I was determined to get to the heart of the reputation of this mighty metropolis. Although I was initially unsure about Istanbul as a family holiday destination, it was the presence of my small daughter that was the key.
Within half an hour of arriving she was being called princess and offered the hand of the waiter’s brother’s son in marriage.
Ancient monuments
In the ancient Aya Sofya (Hagia Sophia) she scuttled around on the smooth stone floors and climbed up and down a hundreds-of-years-old wooden platform while we admired the still beautiful frescoes under the might dome.
The Blue Mosque is only a few hundred metres away but quite a contrast in terms of atmosphere and upkeep. The littel one enjoyed the thick carpet, lying on her back and gazing up at the lights and beautiful tiles.
There is a lot to see at the Topkapi Palace and you should allow a whole afternoon. Beyond the spooky harem, the sumptuous apartments, and the eye-popping jewels, the most beautiful structure is the very last you reach after the many courts and gardens. The delicate decoration of the pavilion and romantic views across the Bosphorus to the Galata Tower on the Golden Horn under a dusty apricot sky is matchless.
On Divan Yolu, the main thoroughfare of Sultanhamet, we all enjoyed delicious stuffed aubergine and the ubiquitous bulgher wheat rice salad at Bayan 2 restaurant, before raiding one of the many patisseries for a sweet bite.
Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia in Sultanahmet Istanbul Turkey
Istanbul or Rome?
I wonder if you’ve been travelling too long when you feel compelled to compare every new destination with another place but I did often feel in Beyoglu that I might be wandering the streets of some western European capital.
From the excitement of the youthful population thronging a main drag lined with gem after gem of art nouveau architecture, to the antique tram ding dinging its way down from Taksim square, this district has something for everyone, as well as the most glamorous kebab shops you’ll ever see.
There are pretty arcades with antiques, jewellery and bric a brac, and the regeneration of historic Levantine buildings in the streets off Istikal Caddesi is good to see.
Gulhane Park is a beautiful sight in autumn; kick your feet through the leaves and enjoy a pot of tea and a dish of pistachio ice cream overlooking the Bosphorus in the tea garden below the walls of the Topkapi Palace.
Bazaar ‘til you drop
Near the Grand Bazaar a man sits in the window of his rug shop, completely surrounded by great piles of kilims like an Arabian night. Inside the largest enclosed bazaar in the world it is all glitz and gold and souvenir trinkets but still men sit passing the time of day on low stools; prayer beads dripping from their fingertips and tea delivered in little glasses on a silver tray.
Through the haberdashery quarter porters carry huge loads, bent double with their leather backpacks on the streets leading upward to the Suleymaniye mosque, its interior still shrouded for restoration.
Or head down through the street of Christmas decoration shops to the fragrant delights of the Spice Bazaar. Here you will find scoops of apple tea, towers of nougat, dishes of chestnuts, tubs of Turkish delight, pyramids of spices and baskets of dried flowers.
Across the Golden Horn in Beyoglu join the throngs of young Istanbullus surging down Istikal Caddesi from Taksim square, enjoying the shops, eateries and entertainment.
Crossing continents
Touching down on the Asian side of the Bosphorus is not always on an Istanbul city break schedule but it’s well worth the visit once you get past the noisy traffic of the waterfront. The ferry ride from Eminonu is a pleasure in itself.
The streets are festooned with russet-coloured grapevines in autumn and there’s nothing touristy about a wander through the street markets and funky cafes with the locals.
Turkish shopkeepers take great pride in their displays and in the Kadikoy district you will not fail to be impressed by the carefully-arranged stacks of giant broccoli, shiny shoals of fish and piles of grapevine leaves.
We had a fabulous meal at the fashionable Ciya Sofrasi, which specialises in delicious mounds of baked pilaf fragrant with almonds and raisins; the delicately spiced house kebab; and black mulberry sherbet beverages. For dessert you can’t go past the baked pistachio cream of the Dough Plies or the melt-in-the-mouth Teleme cream figs.
One final mosque
Deep in the back streets of Sultanhamet is a small mosque that is inexplicably missed off many Istanbul itineraries. We had the Sokollu Mehmet Pasa Camii to ourselves, apart from the elderly retainer, and a peaceful sense of spirituality pervades that is missing from the great domes of the city.
The high quality Iznik tiles and original painted wooden ceiling panels complement the graceful dome by Istanbul’s premier historic architect, Mimar Sinan.
The heart of the city
Sitting in the park that separates Aya Sofia and the Blue Mosque, long shadows are cast by cypresses across lawns strewn with yellow plane leaves. Rusty chestnuts line the avenue and the cacophony of competing muezzin cries fades.
Passersby stop to chuck the cheeks of my little daughter, smiling as they imitate her baby babble. In the restaurants fellow diners turn to make friends; an old man trying to make her laugh by showing her the sugar cube held between his teeth as he sips his tea.
She danced to traditional Turkish music on a bandstand off Divan Yolu and grinned at the shoe-shine man. And everywhere she was welcome; the centre of attention with both men and women.
Beyond history and culture, today it’s the warmth of her people that make Istanbul great.
Natasha von Geldern
More information:
Natasha stayed at the stylish Midtown Hotel, which is centrally located in a pleasant street just off Taksim Square, at the top of the district of Beyoglu. Midtown Hotel is a member of Special Hotels of the World. For more information or to book please visit the website or call 020 7380 3658.
Pegasus Airlines flies daily from London Stansted to Istanbul's new Sabiha Gokcen airport from £39.99. A shuttle bus runs hourly from the airport to Taksim Square for around £6.
Natasha used Rough Guides’ Istanbul, an erudite, comprehensive guide to the Turkish capital.
(TravelBite.co.uk Tuesday, 15 Dec 2009)
