The Historical Peninsula of Istanbul
PART 1
PART 2
The Historical Peninsula of Istanbul - part 2
Yükleyen sultanahmet1. - İlginç seyahat videolarını izleyin ve yeni yerleri keşfedin.
The Historical Peninsula of Istanbul
Yükleyen sultanahmet1. - Seyahat videolarıyla yeni yerleri keşfedin.
PART 3
The Historical Peninsula of Istanbul - part 3
Yükleyen sultanahmet1. - İlginç seyahat videolarını izleyin ve yeni yerleri keşfedin.
Guide to Istanbul | sultanahmet1.com
Besides numerous iconic monuments, there happen to be several famous places that add beauty and importance to the city of Istanbul. The book market (Sahaflar Carsisi) in Istanbul has been quite successful in aptly preserving the familiar atmosphere of the market (bazaar) so common nearly two hundred years ago when the place was dominated by the merchants involved in their respective trades with no special favor to the foreigner visitors.
Talking about the location of this market, it is spread on the courtyard from the Bayezid mosque extending up to the Grand Bazaar of Istanbul, which incidentally is the same location where the book and paper market existed during the Byzantine period. The bookstalls in this market are full of holy books, novels, textbooks and foreign books majority of which had been printed by the first Ottoman printer, Ibrahim Muteferrika.
One can find not just new but even secondhand books in English in one of the prominent bookstores in this market named Dilmen Kitabevi bookstore. Among various books displayed in different book shelves, one can find sufficient material throwing light on the Sexual life in Ottoman times. And there also happens to be a small market dealing in old coins, which is located through the far away gate.
Interior of the Rustem Pasha Mosque
Rustem Pasha mosque- This mosque, although small in size, is in no way, less prominent in terms of historical importance. The undercroft of this mosque serves as shops and can be reached by winding stairs. The true beauty of this mosque lies in its majestic design, thanks to the coveted efforts of its architect, Mimar Sinan, who built this mosque in the year 1563. No wonder, it really deserves to be called as the decorative wonders of Istanbul. With a truly majestic array of Iznik tiles adding glory to this artifact, this mosque once had deep red colored tiles that are no longer to be found now.
Crimea Memorial Church
Crimea Memorial Church-Various efforts by Turkey’s secular nationalists have been diverted towards making the city wholly provincial, especially by expressing their disregard on the city’s tradition of religious diversity. This displeasure was apparent towards the Greek Orthodox Church, making life difficult for the Patriarch living in Istanbul. The history of Istanbul will be considered incomplete without making a reference about a small yet quite significant fragment in the history of Istanbul, that is, the Crimea Memorial Church. Designed by GE Street, a famous English architect, this church was built on the area donated by the sultan in the year 1858-68. This church is a reminder of the times when the quite traditional Ottoman Empire welcomed western influences with open hands. Declining by the 1980s, this Anglican church was opened once again with the efforts of Assyrian refugees who took shelter in the 1990s. do take time to enjoy the beautiful painted chancel screen by Mungo McCosh and taking part in the Sunday congregation which begins at 10 am.
Cinaralti teahouse, Cengelkoy-Want to move away from the noisy hustle and bustle of the old city, take a public ferry to reach Uskudar and even Beylerbeyi Palace while continuing your visit to Cengelkoy. Cinaralti teahouse happens to be a traditional teahouse located on the waterfront enabling you to enjoy some of the most exotic views of the old city. You will be amazed by the mesmerizing sound of the ringing of the bells coming from a Greek orthodox church situated just across the road that mingle beautifully with the call to prayer. If you want to find a perfect place for enjoying your supper, just head straight towards Iskele Restaurant and enjoy probably the best fish available in the town.
Asitane Restaurant- If you happen to pay a visit to the Chora Church museum to enjoy its vivid mosaics belonging to the 12th century, you must make your visit more enjoyable and memorable by having lunch at Asitane Restaurant located just next door. This restaurant will take you to the glorious past of the 15th to the 18th century because he searched various festival menus of the kitchen at the Topkapi Palace to recreate recipes of that period. So, don’t forget to taste stuffed quince or stuffed melon while enjoying classical and jazz concerts held in the garden from time to time.
Church of St. Sergius and St Bacchus- Also known by the name of Little Hagia Sophia, this church belonging to the 15th century is now used as a mosque. This church was mainly built as a draft of architecture for testing new ideas. The reason why it was named as Little Hagia Sophia is quite interesting. If, in your imagination, you divide this building and place another dome on the top of the two domes, you will find a close resemblance of the building made according to your imaginative plan with the original and bigger Hagia Sophia. Situated just at a short distance from the central point of the old town, it is advisable to first visit the calligrapher’s market on the right before the entrance of this building before proceeding your visit towards this smaller Hagia Sophia. And if you are interested in taking home a souvenir in old Arabic script on anything, just order as you enter inside and collect while exiting from this mosque.
Turkish coffee shop of Fazil Bey—While passing through the route where the famous Fazil Bey’in Turk Kahvesi is located, you are likely to be fascinated by the inviting fragrance of fresh coffee just roasted in a machine belonging to the ancient times. This famous coffee shop was founded in 1923 and since then, it has turned many hearts passing-by to enjoy a sip of its delicious coffee. You can choose the flavor according to your individual liking. From vanilla, mastic, cardamom to chocolate, the shop provides coffee in every flavor. And don’t forget to accompany your cuppa of coffee with the homemade lemonade along with a few pieces of a Turkish delight named lokum.
Uskudar Bit Pazari antique flea market- Known to be somewhat conservative suburb situated on the Asian side, Uskudar has a great historical importance and has several famous monuments, mosques and hamams belonging to the Ottoman times. There are nearly 40 shops inside the covered bazaar that sell almost everything under the sun from bric-a-brac to numerous intricately carved pieces including marble basins. And a famous shop that has special items with wood, iron and stone work on them happens to be Asir Antik. If you want to shop for antique knick-knacks like keys, locks etc., you need to walk just a step further because Ridvan Tasciogullari’s shop is the next shop after Asir Antik. The owner of this shop, Mr. Ridvan has been taking several tours of Turkey to find some of the most unusual and special pieces to be stored in his collection at this shop.
Laundromat Boutique- This is a recently opened boutique located in Galata-Beyoglu. Galata has emerged to be a hot destination and this shop in Galata is only at a walking distance from the Galata Tower. Designers Yasemin Ozeri and Oyku Thurston, who are the co-owners of this shop, have the deft of creating exquisite designs on mufflers, shawls and hats. Apart from the designer creations of these two above named designers, the shop also has collection of other contemporary designers of Turkey. The best thing about the collection in this shop is that it changes every three months to include new designs from contemporary designers. and an exhibition to showcase the new breed of talented fashion designers is held four times in a year.
Princes Islands- Princes Islands, particularly Buyukada, is an inviting place for walking or for cycling around. If you feel hungry while taking a stroll around the island, you have a couple of restaurants on the Iskelse that will serve you the best fish cuisines which you are likely to feel compelled to have more and more. You can walk up to Hagia Yorgi for visiting a monastery and a church there. What can be more enjoying than having a cup of tea while watching the beautiful sunset view at evening?
Kanlica-If you pass through the outskirts of the city of Istanbul, do take time to taste the amazing and very famous yogurt made from sheep’s and cow’ milk and topped with the creamy skin and sprinkling of sugar. This is none other than Kanlica yogurt. Of course, that’s the reason why Bosphorus is an ideal place to escape from the humdrum of the city.
Where sugar meets spice | sultanahmet1.com
Intrigued by Ottoman flavours, Caroline Baum rolls up her sleeves and takes a cooking class in Istanbul.
Turkish delights ... a market stall.
I've just been handed a scimitar. At least that's what it looks like - a weapon that might have been used to lop off disloyal heads at the sultan's court in the nearby Topkapi Palace. It turns out to be the Turkish equivalent of a mezzaluna: a crescent-shaped blade, called a zirh, very large and heavy, which takes some getting used to.
The chef and teacher, Feyzi Yildirim, shows me how to rock it from side to side vigorously and then points to a mountain of fresh dill, parsley and coriander. He wants them chopped finely and I have already discovered that he's pretty exacting, even though he speaks no English. Pointing, at times, can be an eloquent method of expressing disapproval: earlier I was asked to pound and knead a bucket of salted and finely chopped onions to extract their juices. When my hands are knuckle-deep in liquid, Yildirim insists that it is not enough. But he does have a neat trick for removing the smell of onion from my hands: a quick rub with a cut lemon.
I've joined a hands-on, half-day class at Cooking Alaturka, around the corner from the Blue Mosque in Istanbul's historic precinct of Sultanahmet. There are seven others in our group and an even gender spread. We're preparing a five-course lunch of traditional Ottoman home cooking and, what's more, we've a schedule to stick to. The school, based on the model of the Cordon Bleu, is open to the public for lunch.
Alaturka is the brainchild of a determined expatriate Dutch woman and former hotelier, Eveline Zoutendijk. Trained at Cordon Bleu in Paris and after a career in hotel management in New York, she fell in love with Istanbul, learnt the fiendishly difficult language and settled here 12 years ago. Briskly efficient, Zoutendijk runs the classes herself, translating Yildirim's instructions, adding her own hints, juggling pans from stove to oven. She also has a great list of recommended restaurants, which helps visitors navigate a bewildering array of options. On request, she leads tours of produce markets, avoiding the tourist traps such as the Spice Market.
Zoutendijk has studied the subtleties and diversity of Turkish food to devise the seven menus in her school's repertoire. "I love the variety of fresh bold flavours, the foraged ingredients in salads and mezze, the kebab-house culture, the sharing of dishes, the strong emphasis on vegetables such as okra, which some of our clients are a bit unsure about; the regional variations in cheeses," she says. "Turkey is justifiably proud of being one of only seven countries that can feed itself."
All her clients "wants to do something with eggplant" and some are "a bit unsure about the yoghurt soup until they make it. When they look at the list of ingredients, their faces fall but when they taste it ... big smiles." She does not teach with seafood ("too expensive") or bread, because she doesn't have the right oven for it, and she says she doesn't have the right ventilation for grilling kebabs. Students receive recipes to keep, which means they can concentrate on technique instead of scribbling notes.
We're making a soup of red lentil, bulgur, mint and red pepper that is quick and great for freezing; imam bayildi, a classic stuffed eggplant dish that is good hot or cold; dill and cheese pancakes; stuffed vine leaves; and syrup-soaked biscuits topped with the most vibrantly green, fresh pistachios I've seen.
There's plenty to do: we each find a spot in the compact kitchen to roll out dough, beat a batter or dice tomatoes. All of us have trouble making the eggplant boats that we are going to stuff and braise. We either make them too deep or too shallow and we score them incorrectly on the inside, which means they will collapse while cooking. We are all surprised at how easy it is to stuff vine leaves once you know the folding and rolling secret, which is just like learning to make hospital corners in bed-making.
Our favourite is making a round ball of dough and flinging it hard on to a baking tin, before pressing a fresh hazelnut on top ("no fingerprints!" urges Yildirim). This is the first stage of our ultra-sweet dessert. Zoutendijk cuts down the sugar in this and most recipes by more than a third to accommodate non-Turkish palates, but it is still sweeter than we are used to.
There's a moment of panic when people walk in off the street for lunch and we realise we're running late but we set up a proper production line to plate and garnish. Yildirim is a stickler for presentation and we are a bit sloppy. But when we sit down, it's with a real sense of achievement.
Once we've left Alaturka, we become bolder about what we eat during the rest of our time in Istanbul. We sample salep from a street vendor, a hot, milky drink made from dried orchid root. We find slivers of Turkish pastrami, called pastirma, and sharp, herby cheese from the Kurdish town of Van at a classy deli called Namli, behind the Spice Market. We long to cook the sea bass displayed with its red gills turned out as proof of freshness in the markets at the Galata bridge. At a fantastic lunch place called Ciya, on the Asian side of the city, we choose a salad of braised nettles and a strange, chewy dessert of mastic, the resin that was the original ingredient in chewing gum. Our palates recognise the sweet-and-sour blend of pomegranate molasses and cinnamon, the creaminess of fresh chick peas. And when we're peckish after a morning of mosques, there's always a simit stall selling the Turkish version of a pretzel covered in toasted sesame seeds.
Getting there
Malaysia Airlines flies to Istanbul for about $1830 via Kuala Lumpur (8 hours and 11 hours). Qatar Airways flies for about $1756 via Doha (14 hours and 5 hours). (Fares are low-season return from Sydney and Melbourne including tax.) Australians require a visa for Turkey, which can be bought on arrival for about $US20 ($23).
Cooking there
Cooking Alaturka, at 72a Akbiyik Caddesi, Sultanahmet, has a three-hour class for €60 ($95) a person, including five recipes and a sit-down lunch with wine. See cookingalaturka.com.
(The Sidney Morning Herald - 13 Feb 2010)
