City break in Istanbul at Sultanahmet
By any standards, Istanbullus are proud of their city. And since you can hardly walk down a street in Sultanhamet without falling over some Byzantine or Ottoman relic they do have a few things to boast about.
But there’s more to Istanbul than antiquity and I was determined to get to the heart of the reputation of this mighty metropolis. Although I was initially unsure about Istanbul as a family holiday destination, it was the presence of my small daughter that was the key.
Within half an hour of arriving she was being called princess and offered the hand of the waiter’s brother’s son in marriage.
Ancient monuments
In the ancient Aya Sofya (Hagia Sophia) she scuttled around on the smooth stone floors and climbed up and down a hundreds-of-years-old wooden platform while we admired the still beautiful frescoes under the might dome.
The Blue Mosque is only a few hundred metres away but quite a contrast in terms of atmosphere and upkeep. The littel one enjoyed the thick carpet, lying on her back and gazing up at the lights and beautiful tiles.
There is a lot to see at the Topkapi Palace and you should allow a whole afternoon. Beyond the spooky harem, the sumptuous apartments, and the eye-popping jewels, the most beautiful structure is the very last you reach after the many courts and gardens. The delicate decoration of the pavilion and romantic views across the Bosphorus to the Galata Tower on the Golden Horn under a dusty apricot sky is matchless.
On Divan Yolu, the main thoroughfare of Sultanhamet, we all enjoyed delicious stuffed aubergine and the ubiquitous bulgher wheat rice salad at Bayan 2 restaurant, before raiding one of the many patisseries for a sweet bite.
Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia in Sultanahmet Istanbul Turkey
Istanbul or Rome?
I wonder if you’ve been travelling too long when you feel compelled to compare every new destination with another place but I did often feel in Beyoglu that I might be wandering the streets of some western European capital.
From the excitement of the youthful population thronging a main drag lined with gem after gem of art nouveau architecture, to the antique tram ding dinging its way down from Taksim square, this district has something for everyone, as well as the most glamorous kebab shops you’ll ever see.
There are pretty arcades with antiques, jewellery and bric a brac, and the regeneration of historic Levantine buildings in the streets off Istikal Caddesi is good to see.
Gulhane Park is a beautiful sight in autumn; kick your feet through the leaves and enjoy a pot of tea and a dish of pistachio ice cream overlooking the Bosphorus in the tea garden below the walls of the Topkapi Palace.
Bazaar ‘til you drop
Near the Grand Bazaar a man sits in the window of his rug shop, completely surrounded by great piles of kilims like an Arabian night. Inside the largest enclosed bazaar in the world it is all glitz and gold and souvenir trinkets but still men sit passing the time of day on low stools; prayer beads dripping from their fingertips and tea delivered in little glasses on a silver tray.
Through the haberdashery quarter porters carry huge loads, bent double with their leather backpacks on the streets leading upward to the Suleymaniye mosque, its interior still shrouded for restoration.
Or head down through the street of Christmas decoration shops to the fragrant delights of the Spice Bazaar. Here you will find scoops of apple tea, towers of nougat, dishes of chestnuts, tubs of Turkish delight, pyramids of spices and baskets of dried flowers.
Across the Golden Horn in Beyoglu join the throngs of young Istanbullus surging down Istikal Caddesi from Taksim square, enjoying the shops, eateries and entertainment.
Crossing continents
Touching down on the Asian side of the Bosphorus is not always on an Istanbul city break schedule but it’s well worth the visit once you get past the noisy traffic of the waterfront. The ferry ride from Eminonu is a pleasure in itself.
The streets are festooned with russet-coloured grapevines in autumn and there’s nothing touristy about a wander through the street markets and funky cafes with the locals.
Turkish shopkeepers take great pride in their displays and in the Kadikoy district you will not fail to be impressed by the carefully-arranged stacks of giant broccoli, shiny shoals of fish and piles of grapevine leaves.
We had a fabulous meal at the fashionable Ciya Sofrasi, which specialises in delicious mounds of baked pilaf fragrant with almonds and raisins; the delicately spiced house kebab; and black mulberry sherbet beverages. For dessert you can’t go past the baked pistachio cream of the Dough Plies or the melt-in-the-mouth Teleme cream figs.
One final mosque
Deep in the back streets of Sultanhamet is a small mosque that is inexplicably missed off many Istanbul itineraries. We had the Sokollu Mehmet Pasa Camii to ourselves, apart from the elderly retainer, and a peaceful sense of spirituality pervades that is missing from the great domes of the city.
The high quality Iznik tiles and original painted wooden ceiling panels complement the graceful dome by Istanbul’s premier historic architect, Mimar Sinan.
The heart of the city
Sitting in the park that separates Aya Sofia and the Blue Mosque, long shadows are cast by cypresses across lawns strewn with yellow plane leaves. Rusty chestnuts line the avenue and the cacophony of competing muezzin cries fades.
Passersby stop to chuck the cheeks of my little daughter, smiling as they imitate her baby babble. In the restaurants fellow diners turn to make friends; an old man trying to make her laugh by showing her the sugar cube held between his teeth as he sips his tea.
She danced to traditional Turkish music on a bandstand off Divan Yolu and grinned at the shoe-shine man. And everywhere she was welcome; the centre of attention with both men and women.
Beyond history and culture, today it’s the warmth of her people that make Istanbul great.
Natasha von Geldern
More information:
Natasha stayed at the stylish Midtown Hotel, which is centrally located in a pleasant street just off Taksim Square, at the top of the district of Beyoglu. Midtown Hotel is a member of Special Hotels of the World. For more information or to book please visit the website or call 020 7380 3658.
Pegasus Airlines flies daily from London Stansted to Istanbul's new Sabiha Gokcen airport from £39.99. A shuttle bus runs hourly from the airport to Taksim Square for around £6.
Natasha used Rough Guides’ Istanbul, an erudite, comprehensive guide to the Turkish capital.
(TravelBite.co.uk Tuesday, 15 Dec 2009)
Hagia Sophia ( Ayasofya )
The Church of St. Sophia is one of the ancient church of Istanbul built during the ruling of Constantine, the son of Constantine the Great. It is located in front of the famous Blue Mosque in Sultanahmet district of the modern day Istanbul. It had a wooden roof and was known by the name of Megala Ekkleisa. However, it was only in the V century that the church came to be known as Hagia Sophia, the church of Divine wisdom. It is believed that the original church was burnt twice and was rebuild by Emperor Justinian in 530 AD under his personal supervision.
Anthemius of Tralles and Isidore of Miletus were the architects of this church. Nearly ten thousand apprentices accompanied by thousand masons were involved in the construction of this building as the target was to complete the work at the earliest. The work began in 532 AD and was accomplished in nearly five years. Emperor Justinian consecrated the church on 27th December, 537.
St. Sophia has the layout of a typical Byzantine church. Saint Sophia was made a mosque in 1453 when the Turks conquered Constantinople. Hence, four minarets were added to the mosque. It suffered severe damages due to several earthquakes and had to be restored a number of times.
The church was famous for its massive dome. It has a central dome having a diameter of 31 meters. The dome was badly damaged and collapsed during an earthquake in 558. It again suffered partial damage in 989 and then in 1346. As you enter inside, you can feel the influence of the Islamic and Catholic cultures and religions in the frescos and decors of this building. The interiors are made of white and green porphyry with brick encrusting and there are important artifacts and mosaics belonging to different periods. The church once had decorations of marble, granite, terra cotta, glass, gold and silver.
The Church of St. Sophia had a wide collection of holy relics and was the seat of Constantinople’s Patriarch as well as the religious hub of the Orthodox Church for several thousand years. However, when Ottoman Turks conquered Constantinople in 1453, the church was made a mosque and a number of mosaics were plastered over. Also, the minbar and the mihrab were added to give it an identity of typical Islamic religious building.
It is, undoubtedly, one of the greatest historical monuments and the surviving example of architecture of Byzantine times. It served as a model for a number of Ottoman mosques including the Suleymaniye Mosque, the Sultan Ahemd Mosque, the Rustem Pasha Mosque and the Kilic Ali Pasa Mosque. Presently, the famous St. Sophia Church functions as a museum. It is still one of the most exclusive and unique monuments of late antiquity.
Galata Tower in Istanbul – A Tower of Power | sultanahmet1.com
Galata Tower in Beyoglu Istanbul Turkey
Galata Tower (Galata Kulesi) in Istanbul provides a panoramic view of the old town. This oldest and most important monument was built in 507 by Emperor Anastasius using wood and named Lighthouse Tower. However, later in 1348, this tower was rebuilt at the highest point of the citadel of Galata district of Istanbul by Genoese colonists in 1348 as the ’Tower of Christ’ (Christea Turris in Latin).
This 66.90 meter tall tower happens to be one of the distinguishing landmarks of Istanbul. It is 35 meters above the level of the sea and has an internal diameter of 8.95 meters and an external diameter of 16.45 meters (at the base). If you suffer from fear of heights (acrophobia), then you should not consider going to this place. The balcony encircling the row of windows is very narrow and just two persons can walk at a time.
During the Byzantine period, this tower was named ‘Megalos Pyrgos’ (The Great Tower) while the Ottomans called this tower as ‘Hezarfen Tower’ named after Hezarfen Ahmed Celebi. During the 17 century, Hezarfen Ahmed Celebi became the first man in the history to fly when he glided from the tower top to the slopes of Scutari (Chrysopolis) using wooden wings. He jumped from the tower overflowing the Bosphorus and landed at Uskudar after covering a distance of six kilometers.
This tower suffered extensive damages in the fire of Galata in 1832. In 1875, the conic roof top of this tower was destroyed in a storm and the tower was without its any roof top in the Ottoman era. The restoration work of the tower was undertaken by Mahmut the Second and the tower was used as a sign tower.
Later in 1967, the tower and its conical cap were again restored. A concrete structure replaced the wooden interiors of the tower and it was open for general public. The tower became a famous tourist spot of Istanbul. It got its name from Galata, the historical province of Istanbul.
The outdoor balcony on the top floor of Galata Tower provides an enchanting and an excellent view over Istanbul’s rooftops and even across the Golden Cross as well. During the Ottoman period, the tower functioned as a fire lookout tower. However, now, the upper floors of this tower are used as a restaurant, a cafe and a night club for holding Turkish shows.
You can either choose to take a lift to reach the top floor of the tower or simply walk down the hill from Istiklal Caddesi’s end. Also, you may walk from the Galata Bridge side to the tower uphill. There is a nominal fee for visiting the observation deck of the tower, nearly $7 USD.
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