Shopping and Sultans besides the Bosphorus
Istanbul happens to be the Capital of Culture for the year 2010. Hence, the city is a must to be visited and explored by any visitor. Taking a first visit in the city of Istanbul, we had decided to stay in the hotel the Ciragan Palace Kempinski, which is on the European shore of the river Bosphorus.
And the time of our visit to Istanbul was when Istanbul was holding its annual marathon. So, the traffic was quite hectic and traveling by cabs was proving to be a costly affair for us because the hotel where we were staying was at some distance away from the areas of sightseeing.
Nonetheless, our efforts( financially, too) proved their worth as we entered the delightfully colored and decorated images of the national flag, the celebrations joined by the elated football fans and the presence of Mustafa Kemal Ataturk, the founder of the republic of Turkey.
But, the enjoyment that we were experiencing was brought to a screeching half when the sudden brake of the cab by the driver compelled us to get down even though we were yet at a distance of hundred yards from our hotel. And to make things take even an ugly turn, the driver asked to be given another L40 for his fare since the 50 Lira note that we had handed over to him was just a five Lira note.
That was not the end of my journey on that fateful night. And the fact that I was completely alien with the local language complicated the matter for me. As if that was not enough, he wanted to have another note of 50 lira. Although, this rude and treacherous behavior of the cab driver made me notify the issue with the hotel authorities, however, I still did not went forward to lodge an official complaint with the police station.
Once back in our own country, the US, my partner Emma read about the 10 biggest blunders to be avoided while travelling. The feature which was published in the New York Times also mentioned the trick so peculiar with many, if not all, Istanbul cab drivers, who drop the L 50 handed over by the passenger under their feet and show a L5 to harass the traveler. With the mention of this trick also came an advice to report any such issue to the concerned authorities in Istanbul as they are aware of such happenings with the tourists in Istanbul.
However, barring such few incidents, there seems to be no solid reason for any traveler or tourist to put off his visit to Istanbul which is indeed one of the most fascinating destinations thriving with several historical monuments and shopping sprees to be enjoyed for. Istanbul is not just Western-friendly but also a Muslim-friendly city, and boasts of several great gems into its periphery including Ottoman palaces, Turkish hamams, shopping bazaars and its mosques which all join hands to make Istanbul a city to be explored by all visitors, at least once in their life-time.
With numerous ancient sights dotting its geographical map, the year 2010’s Capital of Culture is an international and fast city which boasts of modern shopping bazaars, big hotels, restaurants, bars, nightclubs and art galleries. So, now you know the reason why Istanbul is a beautiful blend of history amalgamating with modernity.
The hotel (The Ciragan Palace)where I was staying during my visit to this modern and traditional city called Istanbul happens to be the one and only hotel on the European shore of the Bosphorus having a five-star rating. Indeed, with several gardens, shops, ballroom of its own and even helipads, the hotel deserves the rating it has been given. Staying in the master suite will cost you L 30,000 for each night (£12,300). However, if your pocket does not allow you to spend so lavishly, then you can go in for standard rooms which are also fitted with all the luxury amenities required.
The good thing about this hotel is that it’s located just next to a former harem which now functions as a high school. There are several buildings in Istanbul which have an interesting history to relate. For example, the Four Seasons hotel was once a notorious jail.
Talking about the journey in the cab the night when we were harassed by the cab driver, we found ourselves to be trapped in the marathon that engulfed and spread wide across the road. Hence, to fight our tiredness, we had our lunch at the Gazebo Lounge and the dinner at the Tugra restaurant. The Tugra restaurant provides some exotic views of the river Bosphorus although it provides only Ottoman cuisine. The waiters were always there making the whole visit a bit less relaxing.
However, it was only later that we came to know about the varied and some of the most glorious varieties of cuisines available in Istanbul, including the stand-up lunches offered by several street carts and other eating places. We were told that while in Istanbul, we could eat like the sultans and enjoy almost every variety among which never to be missed included hot figs and balik ekmet (fish in sandwich).
Istanbul’s history proves that it offers a wide variety of Indian cuisine for locals and tourists alike. The best Indian restaurant in the city of Sultanahmet happens to be Dubb. If you want to have the best tables, just climb up the stairs. However, a word of caution for heavy drinkers. Do not drink beyond your capacity or you may be at the risk of behaving in a sober manner. Candlelight dinner is to be enjoyed best when accompanied by gazing at the floodlit historical landmarks of Istanbul including Aya Sofya and the Blue Mosque.
But, the fact is that the historical gems of Istanbul including the Blue Mosque and the Aya Sofya are no less magnificent even in the broad day light. Aya Sofya was first a church, then converted into a mosque and presently functions as a museum. You need to pay an entrance fee of L20 for making your way into the museum. And you will be spell cast by the imagery representing both the Muslim and the Christian religions together at the same time. This monument was built in the 16th century and represents beautiful mingling of twin cultures in the history of Istanbul.
The harmony factor prevalent in this building was proved by the people from various cultures and religions enjoying the beauty of this place. Some also ventured upstairs to enjoy the view from the gallery at the first floor. We also came across some women dressed traditionally who went towards the Weeping Column and could be seen pushing their hands towards it. As a famous legend has it, a St. Gregory (a miracle worker) appeared at the Weeping Column and since then, it is said that this column has curative properties.
Just a few steps away is the famous Topkapi Palace which has the distinction of having served as the political and spiritual hub of Turkey for several centuries. Amidst the crowd having a sun bath out in the sun, some cats too joined them to play in the manicured lawns of the palace. In Istanbul, cats enjoy a special place in the life of locals since they are considered to bring good fortune.
Topkapi Palace has so much to offer for a visitor that it can hardly be seen and enjoyed by any visitor in a single visit. So you must plan for your visit to this palace to at least be of two days to see a spree of courtyards and buildings waiting to be explored and enjoyed. While some are the domestic buildings of the Ottoman sultans like the bakeries or kitchens, others are state business buildings.
The not to be missed include the Topkapi Dagger, and the Spoonmaker’s Diamond which is the fifth biggest in the world. You will be delighted to find religious relics like the Saucepan of Abraham and the Footprint of Prophet Mohammed.
However, you need to pay the fee for entering the Topkapi harem. Although, there is quite rush at the queue, yet its worth the visit.
Another gem waiting to be explored is the 18th century Dolmabahce Palace which dwarfs the beauty of the Topkapi Palace. Also known by the name of “the Versailles of Istanbul”, it is kept guarded by soldiers outside the entry gate. The Dolmabahce Palace, you will discover lots of yellow dominating all round. And this yellow is stated to be all real gold.
The Blue Mosque located just a few yards away is decorated with several blue-colored mosaic tiles and a fantastic dome which is regarded among several beautiful domes of Istanbul. As a rule for entering into the Blue Mosque, you are required to cover your head with a headscarf if you are a female. However, all visitors need to put off their shoes before entering.
During night time, the life at Istanbul is full of hustle and bustle all around. You will come across payment restaurants selling tasty delicacies especially in areas including Mayhene, Nevisade Sokak and Kumkapi. But, before buying any food from such stalls, be sure to ensure about the quality or you will end up wasting your money on the food which will be far below the minimum taste. The better option is to have your meal at a more standardized eatery just across the next street.
Cats enjoy special attention and love in Istanbul. And it’s not unusual to treat them with special attention. So, don’t become amazed if you find cats being fed by the people to their full capacity.
Istanbul is full of much fun and entertainment waiting to be explored. For example, DogStar happens to be an ‘indie club’ situated in the Asian quarter and boasts of several bars, nightclubs, discos and live music adding special charm to your time.
We spent a night enjoying to terrific Muzak in a market which was however funnily awful confine. I am unable to recall its name, though. But the best music enjoyed to the maximum by me was that being played at a night club named Babylon. Just as we entered, we were treated with a musical welcome from Juldeh Camara, an African musician and Justin Adams, a guitarist. This night club which is involved in its 10th anniversary celebrations presently has also played host to the likes of Arrested Development, Grandmaster Flash and Patti Smith.
Istanbul is not just a treat for various sites, but also great for those who love to shop till they drop. And the good thing is that you can walk on the pedestrian-only area.
And if you happen to walk through the back streets, you can smell quite easily the very smell associated with the city as you pass by thick smoke coming from cigarette smokers, the fuming coffee pots and street barbecues all jostling to get your attention. That is not all, you will be amazed by the number of hairdressers, all of them being girls, sitting outside on the steps of the streets and lost in their beauty enhancing tricks by using hairdryers. If you are a jewelry buyer, there is plenty of it for you in stores especially at the upmarket shops.
Visiting Istanbul without a visit to the famous Grand Bazaar is simply considered incomplete. Regarded to be largest of its kind the world over, this bazaar has mind-blowing 4,000 shops spread in some 60 streets along with a post office, a bank and a mosque of its own apart from a health centre within the Grand Bazaar. This bazaar has everything from rugs, ceramics, antiques, jewellery, gold and much more for everyone.
While the bazaar is known for its welcome to the tourists, however, we had a slightly different experience when trying to bargain for a pair of earrings.
The bazaar has several cafes spread throughout its vicinity. But the best place to enjoy a hot and steaming cup of coffee happens to be Café Bedestan. You can also enjoy eating some baklava along with your coffee. It is not unusual to find shopkeepers extending their welcome to the tourists with their refreshingly fresh local tea known as cay. A word of advice for the first time visitors to this bazaar is to think well before buying any item, especially it’s costly.
The next destination on our agenda of Istanbul visit was the Istanbul Modern. It is an excellent art space having both modern and traditional works inside it. It truly is worth your visit, at least once, if not again and again. You will be swayed by the magical mix of traditional culture with the modernity in an amazing and subtle manner.
Outside this gallery are located several nargile cafes. So, we decided to step inside it to experience the aroma and ambience there and to refresh ourselves too. The nargile (water pipe) cafes are being liked by the university students. But, the only difference is that these days, the pipes are not for smoking opium but for tobacco. However, you can still find many people sucking from water pipes while relaxing on their velvet chairs.
As we were heading towards the time for saying bye to Istanbul, we wanted to get into a boat for going across Bosphorus. It normally takes about two hours to reach. But, being short of time, we opted for commuter boats, which are rather cheap and more fun to travel.
To conclude, we can say that our experience at Istanbul has been quite memorable to feel compelled to come here once again.
A passage between the worlds | sultanahmet1.com
After visiting the famous historical museums and mosques of Istanbul, the next thing on your agenda should be to enjoy the unforgettable experience of voyages to the different waterways.
Bosphorus
On your right is Asia and on your left is Europe. So enjoy the ravishing and enigmatic waters of Bosphorus to make your visit to Istanbul one of the most memorable and enjoyable visits.
Although, geologists are still to find its exact period or manner of origin, but that cannot really take away the awe and fantasy experienced by all those taking a trip to the mysterious waterways of Bosphorus. Nearly 130 m deep, 30 km long and 700 m and 3.5 km wide, it is, certainly, an experience not to be missed by any visitor to Istanbul.
No matter whatever its origins might be, the Bosphorus was regarded as stupendous by the ancient sailors in the Greek period around 1000 BC. When they reached Bosphorus, they felt like it was the place where one world ended and another began.
The fact is that even today, Bosphorus, with additions of numerous palaces, castles and exotic mansions by the waterside, is as remarkable and awe-inspiring as it was nearly 3,000 years ago.
There are daily ferries to fetch you along the Bosphorus and take you back. The views on the way from Eminonu towards the middle of the straits are exquisitely fabulous. As the ferry hurriedly moves towards the straits while passing the tine island of Maiden’s Tower, it goes straight towards its first port at Besiktas.
Just on the left is the big façade of Dolmabahce Palace that was completed around 1853. It presents a picture of the grandeur of the Ottoman Empire. However, it remained neglected for nearly 20 years before the emperor fled to Yildiz Palace, situated on the hilltop, to save himself from a possible attack.
The Ciragan Palace, which was completed in 1874, lies just below the Yildiz Palace on the shore. It is now converted into a hotel named Kempinski Hotel. It shared the same fate of neglect; in fact, it was used for even lesser period of time. The Palace, which had been cursed, witnessed the murder of Abdulaziz, a sultan, and incarceration of Murad V, his weak-minded son, before being the venue of the short-lived and ill-fated Ottoman parliament in the year 1908.
The ferry moves under the huge Ataturk Bridge which happens to be the first bridge to join two continents. Just at the bridge’s foot on the European shore is Ortakoy, a small hub of restaurants, open-air coffee houses and a craft market functioning on weekends.
Moving further, we are approached by waterfront suburbs which once were the fishing villages. Located just between these waterfront suburbs are the military buildings on the Asian shores including the Kuleli naval college and the magnificent waterside mansions made of wood. These wooden mansions, also known by the name of ‘yalis’ were made for the late Ottoman dignitaries, princesses and businessmen. There are some yalis which are still occupied by the children or descendents of the original owners.
There still exist some older yalis that were built strictly according to the Ottoman designs, according to which there must be a separation or division between the public divan and the male salamlik as well as the female living areas of the haremlik. It was only in the mid 19th century that the western designs rose to popularity.
Just a little far are the narrowest straits (nearly 700 m) which provide some terrific views over the two fortresses of Anadolu Hisari located on the Asian shore and Rumeli Hisari on the European shore. Both of these fortresses were constructed in a remarkable short period of just four months by Sultan Mehmet II in 1452 before the conquest of the city of Istanbul.
At present, these two fortresses are somewhat overshadowed by the twin towers of the Bridge of Fatih Sultan Mehmet opened in the year 1988.
From this point onwards, the Bosphorus rives seems to become wide enough to help us witness the history that becomes more clearly visible with very few newer buildings rising along the shores of Bosphorus. The last (but not the least, in any way) but one stop on the European shore happens to be Rumeli Kavagi. The presence of few Ottoman and Byzantine fortifications proves the role of this quiet village as being one of the tow posts on the straits. The Byzantine Yoros fortress lies clinging on the opposite shore’s hilltop.
You will have nearly three hours at your disposal before getting into the return ferry. So, you can spend this time to climb the hilltop where lies the famous Byzantine Yoros fortress. You will be more than happy for spending the time and effort in climbing to the Yoros fortress as it provides some of the most magnificent views of the Black Sea. If you feel hungry by this severe workout a top the hill, there is no need to lose heart for there is available a variety of sumptuous mouth watering dishes waiting for you at the several local fish restaurants of the village.
The daily departure time of boats from Eminonu is 10.35 am and 1.35 pm between the months of mid-April till mid-October. These boats make five stops before they terminate nearly one and a half hour later at Anadolu Kavagi.
So, what are you waiting for? Come join the fun by taking a voyage to this another world.