Sultanahmet Sultan Ahmet istanbul Sultan Istanbul old city hippodrome Istanbul 2010 European Capital of Culture

Few bazaars feel both as real and surreal as the one leading downhill from the Grand Bazaar toward the Spice Bazaar in Eminönu. Commissioned in the 15th century by Grand Vizier Mahmut Paşa, this frenzied market gives a unique glimpse into the synthesis of East and West, religion and consumerism that underlies modern Turkish culture. Inside the jumbled buildings and brightly lit basements is a bustling world of bargain shopping, where stores selling circumcision costumes stand side by side with those trying to sell discount underwear and fresh sweet corn.

Shoppers are largely left alone to peruse the labyrinth of stores along the hectic main street and its arteries, which sell everything from pajamas to handbags, fabric, headscarves, shoes, cosmetics and elaborately decorated wedding dresses. Alongside brands like Pierre Cardin and Polaris shoes, there are also many wholesale suppliers selling cheap clothing, factory seconds and rip offs; if you have the time to rifle through it all, some of the best deals in the city can be found here.

Bring an adventurous spirit and be prepared to veer off into the unknown, where some of Istanbul’s best kept historical secrets lie. All along Mahmutpaşa is a sprinkling of caravanserais or “hans.” These ancient roadside inns were once used to house travelers who typically entered by camel through a narrow corridor and came out into a large, open courtyard with surrounding stalls for the visitors and their animals and merchandise. These days, clothing, textiles and general kitsch have taken over.

One of the most fascinating of Mahmutpaşa’s hans is Kürkçü Han, the only one of its kind still standing from the time of Mehmet the Conqueror. The han’s expansive courtyard is reminiscent of a German Christmas market, though instead of mulled wine and wieners, the small stalls sell clothes, shoes and brightly colored wedding paraphernalia. Upstairs the stores surrounding the courtyard is where, in among the grape vines and roses, these solid brick walls house quality leather and fur coats and one of the largest selections of wool in Istanbul. The brightly colored balls spill from monumental cabinets and tables as I wander past rightfully skeptical storeowners. As charming as one might find festive sweaters and the like, I say a hushed thank you to my grandmother for never having the desire to knit.

The büfes lining Mahmutpaşa are a good place to rest when the consumerist chaos gets too much. These small cafeterias offer basic food and the chance to play spot the tourist, which isn’t too difficult since they tend to stick to a uniform of beige shorts, tank tops and hiking boots, a combination few Turks would care to wear.

Nearby, a centuries-old Turkish bath has managed to combine shopping with history and dining. The 15th-century Mahmut Paşa Mosque complex is home to one of the more bizarre malls in Istanbul. Inside this historic hamam, with its stained glass windows and marble floors, is a scattering of stores selling children’s clothes. Further back, neon lights and a fake orange tree greet visitors at the Hamam Cafe, which offers a range of homemade Turkish dishes, kebabs and a set lunch menu for just 5 Turkish Liras. There’s a rug store and public toilets on site.

Part of Istanbul’s appeal lies in its ability to shock, surprise and delight even the most city-weary soul. With the heat rising and Ramadan upon us, a little more inspiration is needed to tackle the town and immerse ourselves in the special energy that Istanbul has to offer. A visit to Mahmutpaşa Bazaar may just provide the Red Bull wings we are all after.