The Egyptian Bazaar
If you think that you know the Egyptian Bazaar of Istanbul quite well, then you are probably mistaken. Because you will need at least two-hours to find various fantastic and unique offerings that the Egyptian Bazaar has in store for all of you.
The Egyptian Bazaar (Spice Bazaar) ---
Egypt Bazaar ( Spice Bazaar ) in Istanbul Eminonu
You think that you have all the relevant knowledge about this market and its different aspects. But the fact is that it is not true. Those of you who thought there were five doors of this market when it was started in 1666 are wrong in their assumption. The truth is that this bazaar has not five but six doors, each of them opening in a different direction and unfolding before you an altogether different world. The point where the two wings of this L-shaped market meet is known as the ‘praying square’. It got its name because in the earlier times, the shopkeepers of this market used to perform their prayers together at this point. And talking about the offerings in this market, well, it has almost anything to just about everything under the sun from spices, clothes, theater puppets to several other things that you won’t be able to find anywhere else. And this diverse range of things available in this market sometimes astonishes not just the travelers but even the shop owners of this market.
The Flower Market---
Situated just close to the famous Egyptian Bazaar, the Flower Market is a colorful market which seems to be carrying on the tradition of the ancient imperial garden belonging to the Ottoman period. It sells different varieties of plants and their seeds along with several different species of animals including iguanas, peacocks and parrots, to name a few. If you feel tired and want to have a short break in your journey, there are several open-air cafes all around this market to serve you hot simmering cup of tea to revitalize your energies.
The New Mosque---
Although, the name of this mosque is the ‘New Mosque’, but the fact is that is nearly 300-years-old mosque depicting a vibrant example of the exemplary architecture of the Classical period. In fact, this mosque happens to be the last and the only surviving examples of the Ottoman mosques belonging to the Classical Period. The mosque boasts of exotic interiors and decorations belonging to the late 17th century period and you can find Ottoman tiles adding elegance to this beautiful monumental structure. A huge dome rests on four grand columns.
Tomb of the Sultan Mother---
It happens to be the biggest dynastic graveyards of Istanbul located near the entry to Bankalar Caddesi. This mausoleum is the resting place for five sultans along with their wives and the crown princes. It was made in 1663 and has 47 windows and mother-of-pearl entrance. It is worth visiting at least once by every visitor to Istanbul.
The Imperial Pavilion----
Situated just next to the New Mosque, this mysterious structure rises over just one arch. The interiors of this building are decorated with beautiful stained glass, Iznik tiles, wooden doors having carvings and stencil work to add extra charm. Although, the restoration work of this building is now complete, but, it can be viewed only from outside.
The Bazaar Restaurants---
The restaurants here serve various traditional dishes of Istanbul. however, the most favorite among the locals and the tourists is the Turkish coffee garnished with gum mastic and hazelnuts to give you superb flavor and mind blowing taste.
City break in Istanbul at Sultanahmet
By any standards, Istanbullus are proud of their city. And since you can hardly walk down a street in Sultanhamet without falling over some Byzantine or Ottoman relic they do have a few things to boast about.
But there’s more to Istanbul than antiquity and I was determined to get to the heart of the reputation of this mighty metropolis. Although I was initially unsure about Istanbul as a family holiday destination, it was the presence of my small daughter that was the key.
Within half an hour of arriving she was being called princess and offered the hand of the waiter’s brother’s son in marriage.
Ancient monuments
In the ancient Aya Sofya (Hagia Sophia) she scuttled around on the smooth stone floors and climbed up and down a hundreds-of-years-old wooden platform while we admired the still beautiful frescoes under the might dome.
The Blue Mosque is only a few hundred metres away but quite a contrast in terms of atmosphere and upkeep. The littel one enjoyed the thick carpet, lying on her back and gazing up at the lights and beautiful tiles.
There is a lot to see at the Topkapi Palace and you should allow a whole afternoon. Beyond the spooky harem, the sumptuous apartments, and the eye-popping jewels, the most beautiful structure is the very last you reach after the many courts and gardens. The delicate decoration of the pavilion and romantic views across the Bosphorus to the Galata Tower on the Golden Horn under a dusty apricot sky is matchless.
On Divan Yolu, the main thoroughfare of Sultanhamet, we all enjoyed delicious stuffed aubergine and the ubiquitous bulgher wheat rice salad at Bayan 2 restaurant, before raiding one of the many patisseries for a sweet bite.
Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia in Sultanahmet Istanbul Turkey
Istanbul or Rome?
I wonder if you’ve been travelling too long when you feel compelled to compare every new destination with another place but I did often feel in Beyoglu that I might be wandering the streets of some western European capital.
From the excitement of the youthful population thronging a main drag lined with gem after gem of art nouveau architecture, to the antique tram ding dinging its way down from Taksim square, this district has something for everyone, as well as the most glamorous kebab shops you’ll ever see.
There are pretty arcades with antiques, jewellery and bric a brac, and the regeneration of historic Levantine buildings in the streets off Istikal Caddesi is good to see.
Gulhane Park is a beautiful sight in autumn; kick your feet through the leaves and enjoy a pot of tea and a dish of pistachio ice cream overlooking the Bosphorus in the tea garden below the walls of the Topkapi Palace.
Bazaar ‘til you drop
Near the Grand Bazaar a man sits in the window of his rug shop, completely surrounded by great piles of kilims like an Arabian night. Inside the largest enclosed bazaar in the world it is all glitz and gold and souvenir trinkets but still men sit passing the time of day on low stools; prayer beads dripping from their fingertips and tea delivered in little glasses on a silver tray.
Through the haberdashery quarter porters carry huge loads, bent double with their leather backpacks on the streets leading upward to the Suleymaniye mosque, its interior still shrouded for restoration.
Or head down through the street of Christmas decoration shops to the fragrant delights of the Spice Bazaar. Here you will find scoops of apple tea, towers of nougat, dishes of chestnuts, tubs of Turkish delight, pyramids of spices and baskets of dried flowers.
Across the Golden Horn in Beyoglu join the throngs of young Istanbullus surging down Istikal Caddesi from Taksim square, enjoying the shops, eateries and entertainment.
Crossing continents
Touching down on the Asian side of the Bosphorus is not always on an Istanbul city break schedule but it’s well worth the visit once you get past the noisy traffic of the waterfront. The ferry ride from Eminonu is a pleasure in itself.
The streets are festooned with russet-coloured grapevines in autumn and there’s nothing touristy about a wander through the street markets and funky cafes with the locals.
Turkish shopkeepers take great pride in their displays and in the Kadikoy district you will not fail to be impressed by the carefully-arranged stacks of giant broccoli, shiny shoals of fish and piles of grapevine leaves.
We had a fabulous meal at the fashionable Ciya Sofrasi, which specialises in delicious mounds of baked pilaf fragrant with almonds and raisins; the delicately spiced house kebab; and black mulberry sherbet beverages. For dessert you can’t go past the baked pistachio cream of the Dough Plies or the melt-in-the-mouth Teleme cream figs.
One final mosque
Deep in the back streets of Sultanhamet is a small mosque that is inexplicably missed off many Istanbul itineraries. We had the Sokollu Mehmet Pasa Camii to ourselves, apart from the elderly retainer, and a peaceful sense of spirituality pervades that is missing from the great domes of the city.
The high quality Iznik tiles and original painted wooden ceiling panels complement the graceful dome by Istanbul’s premier historic architect, Mimar Sinan.
The heart of the city
Sitting in the park that separates Aya Sofia and the Blue Mosque, long shadows are cast by cypresses across lawns strewn with yellow plane leaves. Rusty chestnuts line the avenue and the cacophony of competing muezzin cries fades.
Passersby stop to chuck the cheeks of my little daughter, smiling as they imitate her baby babble. In the restaurants fellow diners turn to make friends; an old man trying to make her laugh by showing her the sugar cube held between his teeth as he sips his tea.
She danced to traditional Turkish music on a bandstand off Divan Yolu and grinned at the shoe-shine man. And everywhere she was welcome; the centre of attention with both men and women.
Beyond history and culture, today it’s the warmth of her people that make Istanbul great.
Natasha von Geldern
More information:
Natasha stayed at the stylish Midtown Hotel, which is centrally located in a pleasant street just off Taksim Square, at the top of the district of Beyoglu. Midtown Hotel is a member of Special Hotels of the World. For more information or to book please visit the website or call 020 7380 3658.
Pegasus Airlines flies daily from London Stansted to Istanbul's new Sabiha Gokcen airport from £39.99. A shuttle bus runs hourly from the airport to Taksim Square for around £6.
Natasha used Rough Guides’ Istanbul, an erudite, comprehensive guide to the Turkish capital.
(TravelBite.co.uk Tuesday, 15 Dec 2009)
