The Historical Peninsula of Istanbul
PART 1
PART 2
The Historical Peninsula of Istanbul - part 2
Yükleyen sultanahmet1. - İlginç seyahat videolarını izleyin ve yeni yerleri keşfedin.
The Historical Peninsula of Istanbul
Yükleyen sultanahmet1. - Seyahat videolarıyla yeni yerleri keşfedin.
PART 3
The Historical Peninsula of Istanbul - part 3
Yükleyen sultanahmet1. - İlginç seyahat videolarını izleyin ve yeni yerleri keşfedin.
Discovering Byzantine traces in İstanbul
What is this life if, full of care
We have no time to stand and stare.
These are the opening lines of a poem by William Henry Davies in which he bemoans that we miss so many beautiful things in life because we are rushing.
The Chora Museum is one of the numerous Byzantine sites in İstanbul Robert van den Graven recounts in his book.
Crowds and rush describe Istanbul. You only need to be on one of the mighty suspension bridges spanning the Bosporus during rush hour to see the crowds of people trying to get from one continent to another, often sounding their horns in frustration at the task. Or witness the mighty tide of pedestrians pouring over Galata Bridge to get to work.
The city is full of millions of people who are all in a rush to get the next job done, get to the next appointment or just to get home after an extremely tiring day amongst all the crowds.
We are all so busy that often day after day we pass by familiar landmarks neglecting to look up and admire their beauty. Many passengers on the ferry home to Asia close their eyes and rest after a hard day and miss the view of the İstanbul skyline, which has thrilled and amazed travelers for nearly two millennia.
In our haste to catch the train, to purchase our jeton before the ferry departs, not to miss the bus we race past sites that have been silent witnesses to the journeys of centuries of İstanbulites.
Not only do we not know what hidden treasures lie under our feet, we don’t have time to look up at ancient buildings and walls or peer over fences to see old ruins or explore down hidden alleyways.
In his self-guided tour to Byzantine İstanbul, Robert van den Graven encourages us to take time to explore the amazing history of the city that is easily accessible today to the one who takes the time to find it.
Graven introduces us to İstanbul’s glorious history as Constantinople, capital of the Byzantine Empire for over 1,000 years. The book says of itself, “From the awe-inspiring domed nave of Hagia Sophia to the majestic remains of the fifth-century Theodosian walls, from the exquisite mosaics of Chora Church to dungeons and underground cisterns, from Greek Orthodox churches to sacred springs, the ten walking routes in this book take visitors through every layer of İstanbul’s rich Byzantine past.”
The name Byzantines was invented by 19th century historians. The Byzantines themselves thought of themselves as Romans, citizens of the capital of the Eastern Roman Empire. At heart, though, they were Greeks, as they spoke this language, and its learning influenced the church and state. For example, they taught Platonic philosophy.
Some of the sites that van Graven takes us to are well known and open to the public: the Hagia Sophia, the Hippodrome, Çemberlitaş (the Burnt Column), Yerebatan Sarayı (the Underground Cisterns), the Mosaic Museum, Galata Tower, Kariye (Chora Museum) and the walls of the city. Even with the advent of the Müze Kartı, which gives unlimited annual access to museums for a fixed price, the majority of residents of İstanbul have not visited all of these places.
But, even if you have visited them, you may well have missed some of the excellent detail included in this guide. For example, few of us exploring the Hippodrome have gone down a side street at its seeming end and crossed a school playground to see the drop down towards the shore, which was the old wall at the end of the Hippodrome enclosing the spectators’ area. Also it is rare to find a guide that explains the story of each of the frescos of the Chora Museum, including the gallery that shows the life of the Virgin Mary; even the museum doesn’t have this available.
Here is a quick overview of what is covered in each of the walks:
1: Where else could you start but with the Hagia Sophia? Constantinople was the biggest metropolis in the world, and the Hagia Sophia was one of the greatest buildings in the world. The Slavs who came here were so awestruck that “they knew not whether they were in heaven or on earth.”
2: Coming out of the Hagia Sophia you enter the political powerhouse of Constantinople. With the Hagia Sophia, the emperor’s palace and the Hippodrome in the vicinity, this was where the will of the emperor, God and the people could be heard.
3: In Cankurtaran “you find little bits of Byzantine history wherever you go,” whether this is the basement under a carpet shop or going up a few flights of stairs in a building to peer down at excavations that are hidden from sight at street level.
4: The “Mese” was the Byzantine Fifth Avenue, with smart shops and restaurants.
5: Around the Grand Bazaar life seems not to have changed for generations. Twelfth century resident John Tzetzes complained that “workers kept digging up the road so it was impossible for him to get in or out.”
6 &7: Take a walk and train ride around the sea walls. This section has been updated to include the amazing finds during the Marmaray project.
8: Later Byzantine palaces, churches and dungeons! This section contains a transition to the modern day with the Palace of Blachernae over which the Ottoman flag first flew when the city of Constantinople fell to Mehmet the Conqueror.
9: The old districts of Fener and Balat by the Golden Horn contain many treasures that are unknown to those of us who race past on the coast road. Turning aside you can explore such beauties as St. Mary of the Mongols, the Church of Theotokos Pammakaristos (Fethiye Camii), the Church of St. Theodosia (Gül Camii) and the Church of the Pantokrator (Zeyrek Camii). Many of these sites have amazing significance relating to the Ottoman conquest of the city, for some of the fiercest fighting in 1453 was along this stretch of the walls. Gül Camii (Rose Mosque) in fact gets its name from this time. May 29 was St. Theodosia’s feast day. On the day the city was to fall, a large congregation gathered here to pray for deliverance from the hands of the Turks. The church was decorated with garlands of roses for the occasion, and when the Ottoman soldiers stormed in they found these still in place -– hence the Turkish name.
10: It is not just the old city that has Byzantine remains. Galata was called “Sycae” -- the fig orchard -- in Byzantine times, but apart from the tower it does have other buildings and remains. So, too, have various villages along the Bosporus -- for example, Kuruçeşme -- right up to the amazing Byzantine keep above the village of Anadolu Kavağı at the entrance to the Black Sea on the Asian side.
What if you can’t come to İstanbul to explore the back streets, push open gateways, walk down steps to see basement remains and lift up your head to gaze up at tall columns? Van den Graven recommends a fascinating Web site www.byzantium1200.com, which has reconstructions of what the city would have looked like in A.D. 1200. As well as general views of the city, this intriguing site contains pictures of what 66 different buildings would have looked like. Using this site in conjunction with the photos in van den Graven’s book gives you an amazing armchair tour of the old city.
“Byzantine Istanbul,” by Robert van den Graven, published by Çitlembik
http://www.todayszaman.com/tz-web/news-206326-110-discovering-byzantine-traces-in-istanbul.html
Guide to Istanbul | sultanahmet1.com
Besides numerous iconic monuments, there happen to be several famous places that add beauty and importance to the city of Istanbul. The book market (Sahaflar Carsisi) in Istanbul has been quite successful in aptly preserving the familiar atmosphere of the market (bazaar) so common nearly two hundred years ago when the place was dominated by the merchants involved in their respective trades with no special favor to the foreigner visitors.
Talking about the location of this market, it is spread on the courtyard from the Bayezid mosque extending up to the Grand Bazaar of Istanbul, which incidentally is the same location where the book and paper market existed during the Byzantine period. The bookstalls in this market are full of holy books, novels, textbooks and foreign books majority of which had been printed by the first Ottoman printer, Ibrahim Muteferrika.
One can find not just new but even secondhand books in English in one of the prominent bookstores in this market named Dilmen Kitabevi bookstore. Among various books displayed in different book shelves, one can find sufficient material throwing light on the Sexual life in Ottoman times. And there also happens to be a small market dealing in old coins, which is located through the far away gate.
Interior of the Rustem Pasha Mosque
Rustem Pasha mosque- This mosque, although small in size, is in no way, less prominent in terms of historical importance. The undercroft of this mosque serves as shops and can be reached by winding stairs. The true beauty of this mosque lies in its majestic design, thanks to the coveted efforts of its architect, Mimar Sinan, who built this mosque in the year 1563. No wonder, it really deserves to be called as the decorative wonders of Istanbul. With a truly majestic array of Iznik tiles adding glory to this artifact, this mosque once had deep red colored tiles that are no longer to be found now.
Crimea Memorial Church
Crimea Memorial Church-Various efforts by Turkey’s secular nationalists have been diverted towards making the city wholly provincial, especially by expressing their disregard on the city’s tradition of religious diversity. This displeasure was apparent towards the Greek Orthodox Church, making life difficult for the Patriarch living in Istanbul. The history of Istanbul will be considered incomplete without making a reference about a small yet quite significant fragment in the history of Istanbul, that is, the Crimea Memorial Church. Designed by GE Street, a famous English architect, this church was built on the area donated by the sultan in the year 1858-68. This church is a reminder of the times when the quite traditional Ottoman Empire welcomed western influences with open hands. Declining by the 1980s, this Anglican church was opened once again with the efforts of Assyrian refugees who took shelter in the 1990s. do take time to enjoy the beautiful painted chancel screen by Mungo McCosh and taking part in the Sunday congregation which begins at 10 am.
Cinaralti teahouse, Cengelkoy-Want to move away from the noisy hustle and bustle of the old city, take a public ferry to reach Uskudar and even Beylerbeyi Palace while continuing your visit to Cengelkoy. Cinaralti teahouse happens to be a traditional teahouse located on the waterfront enabling you to enjoy some of the most exotic views of the old city. You will be amazed by the mesmerizing sound of the ringing of the bells coming from a Greek orthodox church situated just across the road that mingle beautifully with the call to prayer. If you want to find a perfect place for enjoying your supper, just head straight towards Iskele Restaurant and enjoy probably the best fish available in the town.
Asitane Restaurant- If you happen to pay a visit to the Chora Church museum to enjoy its vivid mosaics belonging to the 12th century, you must make your visit more enjoyable and memorable by having lunch at Asitane Restaurant located just next door. This restaurant will take you to the glorious past of the 15th to the 18th century because he searched various festival menus of the kitchen at the Topkapi Palace to recreate recipes of that period. So, don’t forget to taste stuffed quince or stuffed melon while enjoying classical and jazz concerts held in the garden from time to time.
Church of St. Sergius and St Bacchus- Also known by the name of Little Hagia Sophia, this church belonging to the 15th century is now used as a mosque. This church was mainly built as a draft of architecture for testing new ideas. The reason why it was named as Little Hagia Sophia is quite interesting. If, in your imagination, you divide this building and place another dome on the top of the two domes, you will find a close resemblance of the building made according to your imaginative plan with the original and bigger Hagia Sophia. Situated just at a short distance from the central point of the old town, it is advisable to first visit the calligrapher’s market on the right before the entrance of this building before proceeding your visit towards this smaller Hagia Sophia. And if you are interested in taking home a souvenir in old Arabic script on anything, just order as you enter inside and collect while exiting from this mosque.
Turkish coffee shop of Fazil Bey—While passing through the route where the famous Fazil Bey’in Turk Kahvesi is located, you are likely to be fascinated by the inviting fragrance of fresh coffee just roasted in a machine belonging to the ancient times. This famous coffee shop was founded in 1923 and since then, it has turned many hearts passing-by to enjoy a sip of its delicious coffee. You can choose the flavor according to your individual liking. From vanilla, mastic, cardamom to chocolate, the shop provides coffee in every flavor. And don’t forget to accompany your cuppa of coffee with the homemade lemonade along with a few pieces of a Turkish delight named lokum.
Uskudar Bit Pazari antique flea market- Known to be somewhat conservative suburb situated on the Asian side, Uskudar has a great historical importance and has several famous monuments, mosques and hamams belonging to the Ottoman times. There are nearly 40 shops inside the covered bazaar that sell almost everything under the sun from bric-a-brac to numerous intricately carved pieces including marble basins. And a famous shop that has special items with wood, iron and stone work on them happens to be Asir Antik. If you want to shop for antique knick-knacks like keys, locks etc., you need to walk just a step further because Ridvan Tasciogullari’s shop is the next shop after Asir Antik. The owner of this shop, Mr. Ridvan has been taking several tours of Turkey to find some of the most unusual and special pieces to be stored in his collection at this shop.
Laundromat Boutique- This is a recently opened boutique located in Galata-Beyoglu. Galata has emerged to be a hot destination and this shop in Galata is only at a walking distance from the Galata Tower. Designers Yasemin Ozeri and Oyku Thurston, who are the co-owners of this shop, have the deft of creating exquisite designs on mufflers, shawls and hats. Apart from the designer creations of these two above named designers, the shop also has collection of other contemporary designers of Turkey. The best thing about the collection in this shop is that it changes every three months to include new designs from contemporary designers. and an exhibition to showcase the new breed of talented fashion designers is held four times in a year.
Princes Islands- Princes Islands, particularly Buyukada, is an inviting place for walking or for cycling around. If you feel hungry while taking a stroll around the island, you have a couple of restaurants on the Iskelse that will serve you the best fish cuisines which you are likely to feel compelled to have more and more. You can walk up to Hagia Yorgi for visiting a monastery and a church there. What can be more enjoying than having a cup of tea while watching the beautiful sunset view at evening?
Kanlica-If you pass through the outskirts of the city of Istanbul, do take time to taste the amazing and very famous yogurt made from sheep’s and cow’ milk and topped with the creamy skin and sprinkling of sugar. This is none other than Kanlica yogurt. Of course, that’s the reason why Bosphorus is an ideal place to escape from the humdrum of the city.
