Treasures from Kremlin Palace at Topkapi
Treasures from Kremlin Palace at Topkapi Palace
Home to the Ottoman throne for nearly 400 years, Topkapı Palace is now hosting the czarist treasures of Moscow's Kremlin. The exhibition 'Treasures of the Moscow Kremlin at Topkapı Palace' invites all Istanbul residents to witness the grandeur of the Russian empire for the first time in Turkey
Russophiles and art lovers of all stripes will have the unique opportunity to peruse the treasures of Russia’s Kremlin during an exhibition opening Friday at Istanbul’s historical Topkapı Palace.
Organized under the auspices of the Istanbul 2010 European Capital of Culture Agency in collaboration with the Topkapı Palace and Moscow Kremlin Palace museums, “Treasures of the Moscow Kremlin at Topkapı Palace” will display 16th and 17th century Russian artwork through June 7.
The works focus mainly on the lives of the czars, especially in their capacities as heads of state and army commanders. The show will also display works depicting their private lives, religious practices and roles in public ceremonies.
Housed in the Has Ahırlar section of Topkapı Palace, the exhibition includes ceremonial harnesses for horses, clerical cloaks and examples of the czars’ personal effects. Most of these latter objects were produced by master craftsmen and are typically made of gold and silver.
In addition, “Treasures of the Moscow Kremlin at Topkapı Palace” will also display a series of garments created for the czars by the empire’s master tailors, included clothing sewn and ornamented with exquisite representations in pearls and silver. The czars wore such apparel both for religious functions and in their everyday lives.
The pieces forming the Turkish portion of the collection include swords, helmets and daggers, along with harnesses, pocket watches, basins, ewers and ink-holders that were acquired by the czars over the years. After several centuries in the Russian capital, these Ottoman-era artifacts have returned to Turkey for the first time as part of this exhibition.
Topkapı Palace was the official residence of the Ottoman sultans for 400 years, from 1465 until 1856, and was included on UNESCO’s World Heritage List in 1985. Built in 1459, the palace is a complex made up of four main courtyards and many smaller buildings.
After the establishment of the modern Turkish Republic, the palace was converted into a museum in 1924. Large collections of porcelain pieces, robes, weapons, Ottoman-era miniatures, Islamic calligraphic manuscripts and jewelry are on display in the museum.
Kremlin Palace to host pieces from Topkapı
In a reciprocal arrangement, the Kremlin Palace Museum in Moscow will also host unique treasures from Topkapı Palace in an upcoming exhibition. Ottoman objects produced in the 16th and 17the centuries will be presented at the Palace of Czardom in a show organized by the Istanbul 2010 agency in collaboration with the Topkapı Palace and Kremlin Palace museums.
The exhibition, “Topkapı Palace Treasures at the Kremlin Palace,” will run from May 26 to Aug. 15 and will include 106 pieces, including symbols of the sultanate, personal effects and representations of Ottoman palace life.
The two events mark the first time Russia and Turkey have organized this type of cultural exchange. The exhibitions aim to help further enhance future relations between the two countries.
With the exchange, the two museums also hope to cooperate more fully in the future in preserving artifacts from the imperial past.
(Hurriyet Daily News ; Thursday, March 11, 2010)
Where sugar meets spice | sultanahmet1.com
Intrigued by Ottoman flavours, Caroline Baum rolls up her sleeves and takes a cooking class in Istanbul.
Turkish delights ... a market stall.
I've just been handed a scimitar. At least that's what it looks like - a weapon that might have been used to lop off disloyal heads at the sultan's court in the nearby Topkapi Palace. It turns out to be the Turkish equivalent of a mezzaluna: a crescent-shaped blade, called a zirh, very large and heavy, which takes some getting used to.
The chef and teacher, Feyzi Yildirim, shows me how to rock it from side to side vigorously and then points to a mountain of fresh dill, parsley and coriander. He wants them chopped finely and I have already discovered that he's pretty exacting, even though he speaks no English. Pointing, at times, can be an eloquent method of expressing disapproval: earlier I was asked to pound and knead a bucket of salted and finely chopped onions to extract their juices. When my hands are knuckle-deep in liquid, Yildirim insists that it is not enough. But he does have a neat trick for removing the smell of onion from my hands: a quick rub with a cut lemon.
I've joined a hands-on, half-day class at Cooking Alaturka, around the corner from the Blue Mosque in Istanbul's historic precinct of Sultanahmet. There are seven others in our group and an even gender spread. We're preparing a five-course lunch of traditional Ottoman home cooking and, what's more, we've a schedule to stick to. The school, based on the model of the Cordon Bleu, is open to the public for lunch.
Alaturka is the brainchild of a determined expatriate Dutch woman and former hotelier, Eveline Zoutendijk. Trained at Cordon Bleu in Paris and after a career in hotel management in New York, she fell in love with Istanbul, learnt the fiendishly difficult language and settled here 12 years ago. Briskly efficient, Zoutendijk runs the classes herself, translating Yildirim's instructions, adding her own hints, juggling pans from stove to oven. She also has a great list of recommended restaurants, which helps visitors navigate a bewildering array of options. On request, she leads tours of produce markets, avoiding the tourist traps such as the Spice Market.
Zoutendijk has studied the subtleties and diversity of Turkish food to devise the seven menus in her school's repertoire. "I love the variety of fresh bold flavours, the foraged ingredients in salads and mezze, the kebab-house culture, the sharing of dishes, the strong emphasis on vegetables such as okra, which some of our clients are a bit unsure about; the regional variations in cheeses," she says. "Turkey is justifiably proud of being one of only seven countries that can feed itself."
All her clients "wants to do something with eggplant" and some are "a bit unsure about the yoghurt soup until they make it. When they look at the list of ingredients, their faces fall but when they taste it ... big smiles." She does not teach with seafood ("too expensive") or bread, because she doesn't have the right oven for it, and she says she doesn't have the right ventilation for grilling kebabs. Students receive recipes to keep, which means they can concentrate on technique instead of scribbling notes.
We're making a soup of red lentil, bulgur, mint and red pepper that is quick and great for freezing; imam bayildi, a classic stuffed eggplant dish that is good hot or cold; dill and cheese pancakes; stuffed vine leaves; and syrup-soaked biscuits topped with the most vibrantly green, fresh pistachios I've seen.
There's plenty to do: we each find a spot in the compact kitchen to roll out dough, beat a batter or dice tomatoes. All of us have trouble making the eggplant boats that we are going to stuff and braise. We either make them too deep or too shallow and we score them incorrectly on the inside, which means they will collapse while cooking. We are all surprised at how easy it is to stuff vine leaves once you know the folding and rolling secret, which is just like learning to make hospital corners in bed-making.
Our favourite is making a round ball of dough and flinging it hard on to a baking tin, before pressing a fresh hazelnut on top ("no fingerprints!" urges Yildirim). This is the first stage of our ultra-sweet dessert. Zoutendijk cuts down the sugar in this and most recipes by more than a third to accommodate non-Turkish palates, but it is still sweeter than we are used to.
There's a moment of panic when people walk in off the street for lunch and we realise we're running late but we set up a proper production line to plate and garnish. Yildirim is a stickler for presentation and we are a bit sloppy. But when we sit down, it's with a real sense of achievement.
Once we've left Alaturka, we become bolder about what we eat during the rest of our time in Istanbul. We sample salep from a street vendor, a hot, milky drink made from dried orchid root. We find slivers of Turkish pastrami, called pastirma, and sharp, herby cheese from the Kurdish town of Van at a classy deli called Namli, behind the Spice Market. We long to cook the sea bass displayed with its red gills turned out as proof of freshness in the markets at the Galata bridge. At a fantastic lunch place called Ciya, on the Asian side of the city, we choose a salad of braised nettles and a strange, chewy dessert of mastic, the resin that was the original ingredient in chewing gum. Our palates recognise the sweet-and-sour blend of pomegranate molasses and cinnamon, the creaminess of fresh chick peas. And when we're peckish after a morning of mosques, there's always a simit stall selling the Turkish version of a pretzel covered in toasted sesame seeds.
Getting there
Malaysia Airlines flies to Istanbul for about $1830 via Kuala Lumpur (8 hours and 11 hours). Qatar Airways flies for about $1756 via Doha (14 hours and 5 hours). (Fares are low-season return from Sydney and Melbourne including tax.) Australians require a visa for Turkey, which can be bought on arrival for about $US20 ($23).
Cooking there
Cooking Alaturka, at 72a Akbiyik Caddesi, Sultanahmet, has a three-hour class for €60 ($95) a person, including five recipes and a sit-down lunch with wine. See cookingalaturka.com.
(The Sidney Morning Herald - 13 Feb 2010)
Shopping and Sultans besides the Bosphorus
Istanbul happens to be the Capital of Culture for the year 2010. Hence, the city is a must to be visited and explored by any visitor. Taking a first visit in the city of Istanbul, we had decided to stay in the hotel the Ciragan Palace Kempinski, which is on the European shore of the river Bosphorus.
And the time of our visit to Istanbul was when Istanbul was holding its annual marathon. So, the traffic was quite hectic and traveling by cabs was proving to be a costly affair for us because the hotel where we were staying was at some distance away from the areas of sightseeing.
Nonetheless, our efforts( financially, too) proved their worth as we entered the delightfully colored and decorated images of the national flag, the celebrations joined by the elated football fans and the presence of Mustafa Kemal Ataturk, the founder of the republic of Turkey.
But, the enjoyment that we were experiencing was brought to a screeching half when the sudden brake of the cab by the driver compelled us to get down even though we were yet at a distance of hundred yards from our hotel. And to make things take even an ugly turn, the driver asked to be given another L40 for his fare since the 50 Lira note that we had handed over to him was just a five Lira note.
That was not the end of my journey on that fateful night. And the fact that I was completely alien with the local language complicated the matter for me. As if that was not enough, he wanted to have another note of 50 lira. Although, this rude and treacherous behavior of the cab driver made me notify the issue with the hotel authorities, however, I still did not went forward to lodge an official complaint with the police station.
Once back in our own country, the US, my partner Emma read about the 10 biggest blunders to be avoided while travelling. The feature which was published in the New York Times also mentioned the trick so peculiar with many, if not all, Istanbul cab drivers, who drop the L 50 handed over by the passenger under their feet and show a L5 to harass the traveler. With the mention of this trick also came an advice to report any such issue to the concerned authorities in Istanbul as they are aware of such happenings with the tourists in Istanbul.
However, barring such few incidents, there seems to be no solid reason for any traveler or tourist to put off his visit to Istanbul which is indeed one of the most fascinating destinations thriving with several historical monuments and shopping sprees to be enjoyed for. Istanbul is not just Western-friendly but also a Muslim-friendly city, and boasts of several great gems into its periphery including Ottoman palaces, Turkish hamams, shopping bazaars and its mosques which all join hands to make Istanbul a city to be explored by all visitors, at least once in their life-time.
With numerous ancient sights dotting its geographical map, the year 2010’s Capital of Culture is an international and fast city which boasts of modern shopping bazaars, big hotels, restaurants, bars, nightclubs and art galleries. So, now you know the reason why Istanbul is a beautiful blend of history amalgamating with modernity.
The hotel (The Ciragan Palace)where I was staying during my visit to this modern and traditional city called Istanbul happens to be the one and only hotel on the European shore of the Bosphorus having a five-star rating. Indeed, with several gardens, shops, ballroom of its own and even helipads, the hotel deserves the rating it has been given. Staying in the master suite will cost you L 30,000 for each night (£12,300). However, if your pocket does not allow you to spend so lavishly, then you can go in for standard rooms which are also fitted with all the luxury amenities required.
The good thing about this hotel is that it’s located just next to a former harem which now functions as a high school. There are several buildings in Istanbul which have an interesting history to relate. For example, the Four Seasons hotel was once a notorious jail.
Talking about the journey in the cab the night when we were harassed by the cab driver, we found ourselves to be trapped in the marathon that engulfed and spread wide across the road. Hence, to fight our tiredness, we had our lunch at the Gazebo Lounge and the dinner at the Tugra restaurant. The Tugra restaurant provides some exotic views of the river Bosphorus although it provides only Ottoman cuisine. The waiters were always there making the whole visit a bit less relaxing.
However, it was only later that we came to know about the varied and some of the most glorious varieties of cuisines available in Istanbul, including the stand-up lunches offered by several street carts and other eating places. We were told that while in Istanbul, we could eat like the sultans and enjoy almost every variety among which never to be missed included hot figs and balik ekmet (fish in sandwich).
Istanbul’s history proves that it offers a wide variety of Indian cuisine for locals and tourists alike. The best Indian restaurant in the city of Sultanahmet happens to be Dubb. If you want to have the best tables, just climb up the stairs. However, a word of caution for heavy drinkers. Do not drink beyond your capacity or you may be at the risk of behaving in a sober manner. Candlelight dinner is to be enjoyed best when accompanied by gazing at the floodlit historical landmarks of Istanbul including Aya Sofya and the Blue Mosque.
But, the fact is that the historical gems of Istanbul including the Blue Mosque and the Aya Sofya are no less magnificent even in the broad day light. Aya Sofya was first a church, then converted into a mosque and presently functions as a museum. You need to pay an entrance fee of L20 for making your way into the museum. And you will be spell cast by the imagery representing both the Muslim and the Christian religions together at the same time. This monument was built in the 16th century and represents beautiful mingling of twin cultures in the history of Istanbul.
The harmony factor prevalent in this building was proved by the people from various cultures and religions enjoying the beauty of this place. Some also ventured upstairs to enjoy the view from the gallery at the first floor. We also came across some women dressed traditionally who went towards the Weeping Column and could be seen pushing their hands towards it. As a famous legend has it, a St. Gregory (a miracle worker) appeared at the Weeping Column and since then, it is said that this column has curative properties.
Just a few steps away is the famous Topkapi Palace which has the distinction of having served as the political and spiritual hub of Turkey for several centuries. Amidst the crowd having a sun bath out in the sun, some cats too joined them to play in the manicured lawns of the palace. In Istanbul, cats enjoy a special place in the life of locals since they are considered to bring good fortune.
Topkapi Palace has so much to offer for a visitor that it can hardly be seen and enjoyed by any visitor in a single visit. So you must plan for your visit to this palace to at least be of two days to see a spree of courtyards and buildings waiting to be explored and enjoyed. While some are the domestic buildings of the Ottoman sultans like the bakeries or kitchens, others are state business buildings.
The not to be missed include the Topkapi Dagger, and the Spoonmaker’s Diamond which is the fifth biggest in the world. You will be delighted to find religious relics like the Saucepan of Abraham and the Footprint of Prophet Mohammed.
However, you need to pay the fee for entering the Topkapi harem. Although, there is quite rush at the queue, yet its worth the visit.
Another gem waiting to be explored is the 18th century Dolmabahce Palace which dwarfs the beauty of the Topkapi Palace. Also known by the name of “the Versailles of Istanbul”, it is kept guarded by soldiers outside the entry gate. The Dolmabahce Palace, you will discover lots of yellow dominating all round. And this yellow is stated to be all real gold.
The Blue Mosque located just a few yards away is decorated with several blue-colored mosaic tiles and a fantastic dome which is regarded among several beautiful domes of Istanbul. As a rule for entering into the Blue Mosque, you are required to cover your head with a headscarf if you are a female. However, all visitors need to put off their shoes before entering.
During night time, the life at Istanbul is full of hustle and bustle all around. You will come across payment restaurants selling tasty delicacies especially in areas including Mayhene, Nevisade Sokak and Kumkapi. But, before buying any food from such stalls, be sure to ensure about the quality or you will end up wasting your money on the food which will be far below the minimum taste. The better option is to have your meal at a more standardized eatery just across the next street.
Cats enjoy special attention and love in Istanbul. And it’s not unusual to treat them with special attention. So, don’t become amazed if you find cats being fed by the people to their full capacity.
Istanbul is full of much fun and entertainment waiting to be explored. For example, DogStar happens to be an ‘indie club’ situated in the Asian quarter and boasts of several bars, nightclubs, discos and live music adding special charm to your time.
We spent a night enjoying to terrific Muzak in a market which was however funnily awful confine. I am unable to recall its name, though. But the best music enjoyed to the maximum by me was that being played at a night club named Babylon. Just as we entered, we were treated with a musical welcome from Juldeh Camara, an African musician and Justin Adams, a guitarist. This night club which is involved in its 10th anniversary celebrations presently has also played host to the likes of Arrested Development, Grandmaster Flash and Patti Smith.
Istanbul is not just a treat for various sites, but also great for those who love to shop till they drop. And the good thing is that you can walk on the pedestrian-only area.
And if you happen to walk through the back streets, you can smell quite easily the very smell associated with the city as you pass by thick smoke coming from cigarette smokers, the fuming coffee pots and street barbecues all jostling to get your attention. That is not all, you will be amazed by the number of hairdressers, all of them being girls, sitting outside on the steps of the streets and lost in their beauty enhancing tricks by using hairdryers. If you are a jewelry buyer, there is plenty of it for you in stores especially at the upmarket shops.
Visiting Istanbul without a visit to the famous Grand Bazaar is simply considered incomplete. Regarded to be largest of its kind the world over, this bazaar has mind-blowing 4,000 shops spread in some 60 streets along with a post office, a bank and a mosque of its own apart from a health centre within the Grand Bazaar. This bazaar has everything from rugs, ceramics, antiques, jewellery, gold and much more for everyone.
While the bazaar is known for its welcome to the tourists, however, we had a slightly different experience when trying to bargain for a pair of earrings.
The bazaar has several cafes spread throughout its vicinity. But the best place to enjoy a hot and steaming cup of coffee happens to be Café Bedestan. You can also enjoy eating some baklava along with your coffee. It is not unusual to find shopkeepers extending their welcome to the tourists with their refreshingly fresh local tea known as cay. A word of advice for the first time visitors to this bazaar is to think well before buying any item, especially it’s costly.
The next destination on our agenda of Istanbul visit was the Istanbul Modern. It is an excellent art space having both modern and traditional works inside it. It truly is worth your visit, at least once, if not again and again. You will be swayed by the magical mix of traditional culture with the modernity in an amazing and subtle manner.
Outside this gallery are located several nargile cafes. So, we decided to step inside it to experience the aroma and ambience there and to refresh ourselves too. The nargile (water pipe) cafes are being liked by the university students. But, the only difference is that these days, the pipes are not for smoking opium but for tobacco. However, you can still find many people sucking from water pipes while relaxing on their velvet chairs.
As we were heading towards the time for saying bye to Istanbul, we wanted to get into a boat for going across Bosphorus. It normally takes about two hours to reach. But, being short of time, we opted for commuter boats, which are rather cheap and more fun to travel.
To conclude, we can say that our experience at Istanbul has been quite memorable to feel compelled to come here once again.