City break in Istanbul at Sultanahmet
By any standards, Istanbullus are proud of their city. And since you can hardly walk down a street in Sultanhamet without falling over some Byzantine or Ottoman relic they do have a few things to boast about.
But there’s more to Istanbul than antiquity and I was determined to get to the heart of the reputation of this mighty metropolis. Although I was initially unsure about Istanbul as a family holiday destination, it was the presence of my small daughter that was the key.
Within half an hour of arriving she was being called princess and offered the hand of the waiter’s brother’s son in marriage.
Ancient monuments
In the ancient Aya Sofya (Hagia Sophia) she scuttled around on the smooth stone floors and climbed up and down a hundreds-of-years-old wooden platform while we admired the still beautiful frescoes under the might dome.
The Blue Mosque is only a few hundred metres away but quite a contrast in terms of atmosphere and upkeep. The littel one enjoyed the thick carpet, lying on her back and gazing up at the lights and beautiful tiles.
There is a lot to see at the Topkapi Palace and you should allow a whole afternoon. Beyond the spooky harem, the sumptuous apartments, and the eye-popping jewels, the most beautiful structure is the very last you reach after the many courts and gardens. The delicate decoration of the pavilion and romantic views across the Bosphorus to the Galata Tower on the Golden Horn under a dusty apricot sky is matchless.
On Divan Yolu, the main thoroughfare of Sultanhamet, we all enjoyed delicious stuffed aubergine and the ubiquitous bulgher wheat rice salad at Bayan 2 restaurant, before raiding one of the many patisseries for a sweet bite.
Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia in Sultanahmet Istanbul Turkey
Istanbul or Rome?
I wonder if you’ve been travelling too long when you feel compelled to compare every new destination with another place but I did often feel in Beyoglu that I might be wandering the streets of some western European capital.
From the excitement of the youthful population thronging a main drag lined with gem after gem of art nouveau architecture, to the antique tram ding dinging its way down from Taksim square, this district has something for everyone, as well as the most glamorous kebab shops you’ll ever see.
There are pretty arcades with antiques, jewellery and bric a brac, and the regeneration of historic Levantine buildings in the streets off Istikal Caddesi is good to see.
Gulhane Park is a beautiful sight in autumn; kick your feet through the leaves and enjoy a pot of tea and a dish of pistachio ice cream overlooking the Bosphorus in the tea garden below the walls of the Topkapi Palace.
Bazaar ‘til you drop
Near the Grand Bazaar a man sits in the window of his rug shop, completely surrounded by great piles of kilims like an Arabian night. Inside the largest enclosed bazaar in the world it is all glitz and gold and souvenir trinkets but still men sit passing the time of day on low stools; prayer beads dripping from their fingertips and tea delivered in little glasses on a silver tray.
Through the haberdashery quarter porters carry huge loads, bent double with their leather backpacks on the streets leading upward to the Suleymaniye mosque, its interior still shrouded for restoration.
Or head down through the street of Christmas decoration shops to the fragrant delights of the Spice Bazaar. Here you will find scoops of apple tea, towers of nougat, dishes of chestnuts, tubs of Turkish delight, pyramids of spices and baskets of dried flowers.
Across the Golden Horn in Beyoglu join the throngs of young Istanbullus surging down Istikal Caddesi from Taksim square, enjoying the shops, eateries and entertainment.
Crossing continents
Touching down on the Asian side of the Bosphorus is not always on an Istanbul city break schedule but it’s well worth the visit once you get past the noisy traffic of the waterfront. The ferry ride from Eminonu is a pleasure in itself.
The streets are festooned with russet-coloured grapevines in autumn and there’s nothing touristy about a wander through the street markets and funky cafes with the locals.
Turkish shopkeepers take great pride in their displays and in the Kadikoy district you will not fail to be impressed by the carefully-arranged stacks of giant broccoli, shiny shoals of fish and piles of grapevine leaves.
We had a fabulous meal at the fashionable Ciya Sofrasi, which specialises in delicious mounds of baked pilaf fragrant with almonds and raisins; the delicately spiced house kebab; and black mulberry sherbet beverages. For dessert you can’t go past the baked pistachio cream of the Dough Plies or the melt-in-the-mouth Teleme cream figs.
One final mosque
Deep in the back streets of Sultanhamet is a small mosque that is inexplicably missed off many Istanbul itineraries. We had the Sokollu Mehmet Pasa Camii to ourselves, apart from the elderly retainer, and a peaceful sense of spirituality pervades that is missing from the great domes of the city.
The high quality Iznik tiles and original painted wooden ceiling panels complement the graceful dome by Istanbul’s premier historic architect, Mimar Sinan.
The heart of the city
Sitting in the park that separates Aya Sofia and the Blue Mosque, long shadows are cast by cypresses across lawns strewn with yellow plane leaves. Rusty chestnuts line the avenue and the cacophony of competing muezzin cries fades.
Passersby stop to chuck the cheeks of my little daughter, smiling as they imitate her baby babble. In the restaurants fellow diners turn to make friends; an old man trying to make her laugh by showing her the sugar cube held between his teeth as he sips his tea.
She danced to traditional Turkish music on a bandstand off Divan Yolu and grinned at the shoe-shine man. And everywhere she was welcome; the centre of attention with both men and women.
Beyond history and culture, today it’s the warmth of her people that make Istanbul great.
Natasha von Geldern
More information:
Natasha stayed at the stylish Midtown Hotel, which is centrally located in a pleasant street just off Taksim Square, at the top of the district of Beyoglu. Midtown Hotel is a member of Special Hotels of the World. For more information or to book please visit the website or call 020 7380 3658.
Pegasus Airlines flies daily from London Stansted to Istanbul's new Sabiha Gokcen airport from £39.99. A shuttle bus runs hourly from the airport to Taksim Square for around £6.
Natasha used Rough Guides’ Istanbul, an erudite, comprehensive guide to the Turkish capital.
(TravelBite.co.uk Tuesday, 15 Dec 2009)
Istanbul and exotic mystery…
When I stepped off of the ship in Istanbul I felt like I was in one of those “On the Road” movies starring Bob Hope and Bing Crosby. Everywhere I looked I saw or smelled something so exotic and foreign to me I was simply mesmerized. Located in both Europe and Asia, Istanbul is a city of contrast, blending not only East and West, but also antiquity and the contemporary. One of our main attractions was the Byzantine Hagia Sophia, Church of Divine Wisdom. Built from 532 to 537 AD by the Emperor Justinian, it was to be the new Cathedral of Constantinople. It was the greatest Christian cathedral of the Middle Ages, and is regarded as one of the greatest and most beautiful buildings in the world. The mosaics inside were glorious. Mary, Jesus, and Joseph are beautifully illuminated by gold tiles, still full of color and life. Neither the pictures in the guidebooks nor the pictures we took were able to do it justice. Directly across from the Hagia Sophia is the Blue Mosque. Constructed from 1609 to 1616 by Sultan Ahmet I to compete with Hagia Sophia, it derives its name from the blue on the Iznik tiles inside. Once again, no picture is able to do it justice. The fabulous patterns and colors adorning the interior of the mosque are stunning. The light shining in seems to be from another world. The prayers of the faithful echo from the walls, it was an experience none of us will ever forget. Across from the Blue Mosque is the Grand Bazaar, built by Mehmet the Conqueror (1451). This covered maze of some 4,000 shops sells everything from inexpensive souvenirs to spices and priceless treasures. The smells, the wares, the variety of clothing worn by the customers, inside the bazaar I experienced a culture so foreign, so rich, it was exhilarating. The Topkapi Palace was yet another major site we were able to tour during our day and a half in Instanbul. Used as the administrative center of the Ottoman Empire from 1465 to 1853, it is currently a museum for the Imperial Era, and is one of the best tourist experiences in Istanbul. Not only does Topkapi Palace have many fantastic examples of Ottoman architecture, the museum houses a large collection of porcelain, robes, weapons, armors, shields, murals, treasure and jewelry. And there are multitudes of incredible Iznik tiles adorning the palace. My biggest thrill was the Imperial Treasury — four rooms Þlled with unbelievable treasures, the most unbelievable being the Spoonmaker’s Diamond weighing in at an astonishing 86 carats. My friend Jeanie and I stood in front of it so long the guards became suspicious and made us move along. There are relics of the Prophet Mohammed inside the palace, and those rooms are packed. Dining in Istanbul is outstanding. You choose from traditional dishes and seafood served from street carts, Þsh markets, or in charming restaurants. Turkey introduced coffee to Europe. Go ahead, have a cup of this mystic elixir. Two members of my group attended a belly dance/dining experience in Istanbul that was reportedly spell- binding. The dancing ability of the women was astonishing to my friends. Istanbul is a wonderful window into ancient times, a fabulous destination where you are guaranteed to lose yourself in culture and history. Don’t miss out on any opportunity to experience Istanbul for yourself.
07 December 2009
http://www.mcalesternews.com/homepage/local_story_341094943.html?keyword=leadpicturestory
Blue Mosque of Sultanahmet Istanbul
One of the reasons for building the Blue Mosque of Istanbul way back in the Ottoman period was to make something as a rival to Hagia Sophia, the most famous church of Istanbul. Built by Sedefkar Mehmet Aga, it is truly a masterpiece of architectural expertise. By seeing the two monuments of Istanbul located closely to each other, namely the Blue Mosque and the Hagia Sophia, visitors can compare these two historical masterpieces.
Blue Mosque and Bosphorus
While walking along the shores of the Sea of Marmara, any one can notice tone of the historical landmarks of Istanbul, that is, the Blue Mosque. One of the distinguishing features of this mosque is the array of six minarets which lend a unique identity to this place.
The construction of the Blue Mosque began in 1609 on the directions of Sultan Ahmet I and was completed in 1616. Considered to be the largest mosque of the Classical Era, it is commonly known by the name of the Blue Mosque while the official name of this mosque happens to be the Sultan Ahmet Mosque. It is a majestic masterpiece of Islamic as well as Byzantine architecture.
Another distinguishing feature of the Blue Mosque is its huge size. It can accommodate nearly 10,000 people at a time. You are greeted by refreshing fountains around the courtyard of the mosque that remind the Muslim devotees to wash their face, nose, neck, arms and feet before entering the mosque.
Made with blue-colored Iznik tiles, the mosque is truly the Blue Mosque. The blue color helps to make the mosque appear unique and full of light. This huge mosque has a dome of nearly 77 feet in diameter and 140 meters in height. It has about 260 windows and four pillars, each measuring nearly 16 feet in diameter.
While visiting the mosque, you need to keep in mind a few basic things. These include wearing a proper dress meant for visiting any religious place. Also, the mosque is closed for five times in a day for the visitors while the prayers are held inside.
If you are a Non-Muslim, you need to use the north side of the entrance for going inside. However, don’t forget to pay a visit to the west or the main entrance of the Blue Mosque which is the best part of the mosque.
The best time to visit the Blue Mosque is mid-morning. This is because you have three hours at your disposal till the gates of the mosque are closed for visitors early in the morning and at noon. However, you must enquire about the exact timings for visiting the Blue Mosque as the times may vary from season to season.