Where sugar meets spice | sultanahmet1.com
Intrigued by Ottoman flavours, Caroline Baum rolls up her sleeves and takes a cooking class in Istanbul.
Turkish delights ... a market stall.
I've just been handed a scimitar. At least that's what it looks like - a weapon that might have been used to lop off disloyal heads at the sultan's court in the nearby Topkapi Palace. It turns out to be the Turkish equivalent of a mezzaluna: a crescent-shaped blade, called a zirh, very large and heavy, which takes some getting used to.
The chef and teacher, Feyzi Yildirim, shows me how to rock it from side to side vigorously and then points to a mountain of fresh dill, parsley and coriander. He wants them chopped finely and I have already discovered that he's pretty exacting, even though he speaks no English. Pointing, at times, can be an eloquent method of expressing disapproval: earlier I was asked to pound and knead a bucket of salted and finely chopped onions to extract their juices. When my hands are knuckle-deep in liquid, Yildirim insists that it is not enough. But he does have a neat trick for removing the smell of onion from my hands: a quick rub with a cut lemon.
I've joined a hands-on, half-day class at Cooking Alaturka, around the corner from the Blue Mosque in Istanbul's historic precinct of Sultanahmet. There are seven others in our group and an even gender spread. We're preparing a five-course lunch of traditional Ottoman home cooking and, what's more, we've a schedule to stick to. The school, based on the model of the Cordon Bleu, is open to the public for lunch.
Alaturka is the brainchild of a determined expatriate Dutch woman and former hotelier, Eveline Zoutendijk. Trained at Cordon Bleu in Paris and after a career in hotel management in New York, she fell in love with Istanbul, learnt the fiendishly difficult language and settled here 12 years ago. Briskly efficient, Zoutendijk runs the classes herself, translating Yildirim's instructions, adding her own hints, juggling pans from stove to oven. She also has a great list of recommended restaurants, which helps visitors navigate a bewildering array of options. On request, she leads tours of produce markets, avoiding the tourist traps such as the Spice Market.
Zoutendijk has studied the subtleties and diversity of Turkish food to devise the seven menus in her school's repertoire. "I love the variety of fresh bold flavours, the foraged ingredients in salads and mezze, the kebab-house culture, the sharing of dishes, the strong emphasis on vegetables such as okra, which some of our clients are a bit unsure about; the regional variations in cheeses," she says. "Turkey is justifiably proud of being one of only seven countries that can feed itself."
All her clients "wants to do something with eggplant" and some are "a bit unsure about the yoghurt soup until they make it. When they look at the list of ingredients, their faces fall but when they taste it ... big smiles." She does not teach with seafood ("too expensive") or bread, because she doesn't have the right oven for it, and she says she doesn't have the right ventilation for grilling kebabs. Students receive recipes to keep, which means they can concentrate on technique instead of scribbling notes.
We're making a soup of red lentil, bulgur, mint and red pepper that is quick and great for freezing; imam bayildi, a classic stuffed eggplant dish that is good hot or cold; dill and cheese pancakes; stuffed vine leaves; and syrup-soaked biscuits topped with the most vibrantly green, fresh pistachios I've seen.
There's plenty to do: we each find a spot in the compact kitchen to roll out dough, beat a batter or dice tomatoes. All of us have trouble making the eggplant boats that we are going to stuff and braise. We either make them too deep or too shallow and we score them incorrectly on the inside, which means they will collapse while cooking. We are all surprised at how easy it is to stuff vine leaves once you know the folding and rolling secret, which is just like learning to make hospital corners in bed-making.
Our favourite is making a round ball of dough and flinging it hard on to a baking tin, before pressing a fresh hazelnut on top ("no fingerprints!" urges Yildirim). This is the first stage of our ultra-sweet dessert. Zoutendijk cuts down the sugar in this and most recipes by more than a third to accommodate non-Turkish palates, but it is still sweeter than we are used to.
There's a moment of panic when people walk in off the street for lunch and we realise we're running late but we set up a proper production line to plate and garnish. Yildirim is a stickler for presentation and we are a bit sloppy. But when we sit down, it's with a real sense of achievement.
Once we've left Alaturka, we become bolder about what we eat during the rest of our time in Istanbul. We sample salep from a street vendor, a hot, milky drink made from dried orchid root. We find slivers of Turkish pastrami, called pastirma, and sharp, herby cheese from the Kurdish town of Van at a classy deli called Namli, behind the Spice Market. We long to cook the sea bass displayed with its red gills turned out as proof of freshness in the markets at the Galata bridge. At a fantastic lunch place called Ciya, on the Asian side of the city, we choose a salad of braised nettles and a strange, chewy dessert of mastic, the resin that was the original ingredient in chewing gum. Our palates recognise the sweet-and-sour blend of pomegranate molasses and cinnamon, the creaminess of fresh chick peas. And when we're peckish after a morning of mosques, there's always a simit stall selling the Turkish version of a pretzel covered in toasted sesame seeds.
Getting there
Malaysia Airlines flies to Istanbul for about $1830 via Kuala Lumpur (8 hours and 11 hours). Qatar Airways flies for about $1756 via Doha (14 hours and 5 hours). (Fares are low-season return from Sydney and Melbourne including tax.) Australians require a visa for Turkey, which can be bought on arrival for about $US20 ($23).
Cooking there
Cooking Alaturka, at 72a Akbiyik Caddesi, Sultanahmet, has a three-hour class for €60 ($95) a person, including five recipes and a sit-down lunch with wine. See cookingalaturka.com.
(The Sidney Morning Herald - 13 Feb 2010)
Misir Carsisi (Spice or Egyptian Bazaar) – Every Visitor’s Delight
Egyptian (Spice) Bazaar in Eminonu Istanbul
When visiting Istanbul, one cannot think of missing a visit to the famous markets of the city, including the Grand Bazaar and the Spice Market. An advantage of visiting the Spice Market of Istanbul is that it happens to be more organized and less crowded market as compared to the big Grand Bazaar or the Kapalicarsi.
The Spice Market or the Misir Carsisi is a heaven for getting acquainted with some of the best Turkish delights. You can taste any of the varieties of the spices available in the market.
Talking about its location, it is quite easily reachable. It’s located just behind Yeni Camii or the New Mosque in Eminonu. You can get a tramway to reach this place if you are putting your stay in Sultanahmet. You would notice clearly the Turkish name of the market Misir Carsisi mentioned along with its familiar name Spice Market on the various sign boards in the tram.
If you happen to be first time visitor to the Spice Market, we would like to inform you that you need to pay TYL 1.50 as tram fare and you also need to get tokens before you board the tram. After reaching your destination, you need to walk across the road through the underpass for reaching the New Mosque. Continue walking along the wall of the Mosque to enter the market of spices, that is, the Spice Market.
The Spice Market has just three alleys as compared to the crowded Grand Bazaar having more than 100 alleys. It is a place for spices of almost all the varieties and some sweets too. The variety of spices is really amazing and available in different colors to allure your smelling and seeing power. You can hear vendors calling the visitors in traditional manner and praising their particular spices. You will even notice some vendors asking the passer-bys to try the spices for testing their quality.
You may enter the Spice Market of Istanbul with a pre-conceived notion that it is a place for enjoying ‘lokum’, the famous sweet Turkish delight made of rose water, sugar and starch. But, the fact is that the Spice Market of Istanbul is a place for you to try varieties of Turkish delights, not just the ‘lokum.’ Moreover, you will find fruit juice in place of rose water in lokum along with pieces of fruits including banana, orange, kiwi and any other fruit and nuts.
Yet another inviting and mouth watering Turkish delight available in the Misir Carsisi is figs, either fresh or dried. They are usually available with walnut stuffing and honey or sugar for a sweet taste. Don’t be amazed to hear the vendors calling you to try the Turkish Viagra as figs are often called the by this name in Istanbul.
For those who have a taste for cheeses, you will find sheep and goat cheese served with pistachio in the Spice Market. You can even taste the sample before you find it irresistible to be missed.
Top 10 Tourist Sites of Istanbul
Istanbul Sight -Blue Mosque - Hagia Sophia
If you are on a short visit to Istanbul and want to experience the richness of the place in your visit, then you might feel confused as to which places to visit and which to keep for the next time. This is because Istanbul is a any tourist’s delight as it has not just one or two riches but a plethora of beautiful and famous historical places to be explored. However, the following list of places will help you get the best of Istanbul in the shortest possible time----
Hagia Sophia Sultanahmet Istanbul Turkey
Hagia Sophia —Also known as Aya Sofya , this ancient monument was built in 532-537 A.D. during the rule of Justinian. Being one of the masterpieces of architectural design, it has Byzantine mosaics that date back from sixth century to the 10th century. It was converted to an Ottoman mosque following the fall of Byzantium. Now days, this church works as a museum open for public from Tuesday to Sunday.
Blue Mosque —Popularly known as Sultanahmet Mosque , this magnificent ancient building was made in 1609-1616 by Mehmet Aga. This functioning mosque has nearly 250 windows that allow natural light to flow in making the place appear larger in size. Tourists can enter the mosque once the prayers are over.
Topkapi Palace--- Topkapi Palace was built by Mehmet II after the conquest of Constantinople to be used as his main residence. Built in 1465, the buildings comprise a number of pavilions inside the huge courtyards. This palace used to be the Sultan’s residence and the official government seat. In 1924, Topkapi Palace was converted to a museum and since then, it has on display some of the most exquisite and finest collection of manuscripts, miniatures, jewelry, costumes and some items of religious significance.
Grand Bazaar--- Grand Bazaar is not just any ordinary place to shop. In fact, it has numerous shops, eating joints, banks and a mosque in its periphery. A visit to Istanbul is incomplete without visiting this famous place that is packed to capacity whenever you go there. This covered bazaar was built in 1453 by Mehmet II following his win over the city. It is open from Monday till Saturday.
Basilica Cistern---Meant to provide water to the Great imperial palace, this cistern was made in 532 A.D. by Justinian and is located near the Hippodrome. The cistern has 336 columns of being nearly 26 feet high providing support to the roof. The visitors can enjoy walking along the side ways of the cistern and listen to the mesmerizing sound of water.
Galata Tower--- Built in 1348, this huge tower seemingly touching the skyline used to serve the purpose of a watch tower during the Ottoman period. One can have views of Princes’ Islands from the top of this tower on clear days. The top floors of this tower have been converted to a night club and a restaurant.
Chora Church---This church of St. Savior was constructed in the 11th century at the site where an earlier church used to exist. The remodeling of Chora Church was done during 1315-1321 with the help of funds provided by an elite Byzantine theologian, Theodore Metochites. The walls and the roofs of this church have some of the most exquisite mosaics of the Byzantine period that depict religious scenes of Christ and Virgin Mary among others. The church now serves as a museum after its conversion into a mosque during the 16th century.
Spice Bazaar---As the structure was built from the funds collected through tax imposed on goods imported from Egypt, this bazaar got to be known as Egyptian Bazaar or Misir Carsisi. From spices, caviar, nuts to herbs, the bazaar is a good place to shop for spices of almost all types. This is a perfect place to shop for herbs to get relief from a number of ailments.
Dolmabahce Palace---Designed by the famous Armenian family of architects, this palace was made by Sultan Abdulmecit I in 1856. One can go inside the palace only by guided tour. The palace is still very luxuriant although it was built when the Ottoman Empire was on its last legs.
Eyup Sultan---Eyup is regarded as one of the main Muslim pilgrimage ranking only after Mecca, Medina and Jerusalem. It is the resting place of Eyup Ensari, the “alamdar” or the standard bearer of the Prophet Muhammad. Eyup Ensari was buried outside the city walls following his death during the siege of Constantinople by Arabs in 678 A.D. Meanwhile, a mosque was built around the tomb of Eyup Ensari by Sultan Mehmet II after he conquered Istanbul. Being a sacred place, it is often visited by Muslims for performing prayers and seeking blessings.