A passage between the worlds | sultanahmet1.com
After visiting the famous historical museums and mosques of Istanbul, the next thing on your agenda should be to enjoy the unforgettable experience of voyages to the different waterways.
Bosphorus
On your right is Asia and on your left is Europe. So enjoy the ravishing and enigmatic waters of Bosphorus to make your visit to Istanbul one of the most memorable and enjoyable visits.
Although, geologists are still to find its exact period or manner of origin, but that cannot really take away the awe and fantasy experienced by all those taking a trip to the mysterious waterways of Bosphorus. Nearly 130 m deep, 30 km long and 700 m and 3.5 km wide, it is, certainly, an experience not to be missed by any visitor to Istanbul.
No matter whatever its origins might be, the Bosphorus was regarded as stupendous by the ancient sailors in the Greek period around 1000 BC. When they reached Bosphorus, they felt like it was the place where one world ended and another began.
The fact is that even today, Bosphorus, with additions of numerous palaces, castles and exotic mansions by the waterside, is as remarkable and awe-inspiring as it was nearly 3,000 years ago.
There are daily ferries to fetch you along the Bosphorus and take you back. The views on the way from Eminonu towards the middle of the straits are exquisitely fabulous. As the ferry hurriedly moves towards the straits while passing the tine island of Maiden’s Tower, it goes straight towards its first port at Besiktas.
Just on the left is the big façade of Dolmabahce Palace that was completed around 1853. It presents a picture of the grandeur of the Ottoman Empire. However, it remained neglected for nearly 20 years before the emperor fled to Yildiz Palace, situated on the hilltop, to save himself from a possible attack.
The Ciragan Palace, which was completed in 1874, lies just below the Yildiz Palace on the shore. It is now converted into a hotel named Kempinski Hotel. It shared the same fate of neglect; in fact, it was used for even lesser period of time. The Palace, which had been cursed, witnessed the murder of Abdulaziz, a sultan, and incarceration of Murad V, his weak-minded son, before being the venue of the short-lived and ill-fated Ottoman parliament in the year 1908.
The ferry moves under the huge Ataturk Bridge which happens to be the first bridge to join two continents. Just at the bridge’s foot on the European shore is Ortakoy, a small hub of restaurants, open-air coffee houses and a craft market functioning on weekends.
Moving further, we are approached by waterfront suburbs which once were the fishing villages. Located just between these waterfront suburbs are the military buildings on the Asian shores including the Kuleli naval college and the magnificent waterside mansions made of wood. These wooden mansions, also known by the name of ‘yalis’ were made for the late Ottoman dignitaries, princesses and businessmen. There are some yalis which are still occupied by the children or descendents of the original owners.
There still exist some older yalis that were built strictly according to the Ottoman designs, according to which there must be a separation or division between the public divan and the male salamlik as well as the female living areas of the haremlik. It was only in the mid 19th century that the western designs rose to popularity.
Just a little far are the narrowest straits (nearly 700 m) which provide some terrific views over the two fortresses of Anadolu Hisari located on the Asian shore and Rumeli Hisari on the European shore. Both of these fortresses were constructed in a remarkable short period of just four months by Sultan Mehmet II in 1452 before the conquest of the city of Istanbul.
At present, these two fortresses are somewhat overshadowed by the twin towers of the Bridge of Fatih Sultan Mehmet opened in the year 1988.
From this point onwards, the Bosphorus rives seems to become wide enough to help us witness the history that becomes more clearly visible with very few newer buildings rising along the shores of Bosphorus. The last (but not the least, in any way) but one stop on the European shore happens to be Rumeli Kavagi. The presence of few Ottoman and Byzantine fortifications proves the role of this quiet village as being one of the tow posts on the straits. The Byzantine Yoros fortress lies clinging on the opposite shore’s hilltop.
You will have nearly three hours at your disposal before getting into the return ferry. So, you can spend this time to climb the hilltop where lies the famous Byzantine Yoros fortress. You will be more than happy for spending the time and effort in climbing to the Yoros fortress as it provides some of the most magnificent views of the Black Sea. If you feel hungry by this severe workout a top the hill, there is no need to lose heart for there is available a variety of sumptuous mouth watering dishes waiting for you at the several local fish restaurants of the village.
The daily departure time of boats from Eminonu is 10.35 am and 1.35 pm between the months of mid-April till mid-October. These boats make five stops before they terminate nearly one and a half hour later at Anadolu Kavagi.
So, what are you waiting for? Come join the fun by taking a voyage to this another world.
Istanbul and exotic mystery…
When I stepped off of the ship in Istanbul I felt like I was in one of those “On the Road” movies starring Bob Hope and Bing Crosby. Everywhere I looked I saw or smelled something so exotic and foreign to me I was simply mesmerized. Located in both Europe and Asia, Istanbul is a city of contrast, blending not only East and West, but also antiquity and the contemporary. One of our main attractions was the Byzantine Hagia Sophia, Church of Divine Wisdom. Built from 532 to 537 AD by the Emperor Justinian, it was to be the new Cathedral of Constantinople. It was the greatest Christian cathedral of the Middle Ages, and is regarded as one of the greatest and most beautiful buildings in the world. The mosaics inside were glorious. Mary, Jesus, and Joseph are beautifully illuminated by gold tiles, still full of color and life. Neither the pictures in the guidebooks nor the pictures we took were able to do it justice. Directly across from the Hagia Sophia is the Blue Mosque. Constructed from 1609 to 1616 by Sultan Ahmet I to compete with Hagia Sophia, it derives its name from the blue on the Iznik tiles inside. Once again, no picture is able to do it justice. The fabulous patterns and colors adorning the interior of the mosque are stunning. The light shining in seems to be from another world. The prayers of the faithful echo from the walls, it was an experience none of us will ever forget. Across from the Blue Mosque is the Grand Bazaar, built by Mehmet the Conqueror (1451). This covered maze of some 4,000 shops sells everything from inexpensive souvenirs to spices and priceless treasures. The smells, the wares, the variety of clothing worn by the customers, inside the bazaar I experienced a culture so foreign, so rich, it was exhilarating. The Topkapi Palace was yet another major site we were able to tour during our day and a half in Instanbul. Used as the administrative center of the Ottoman Empire from 1465 to 1853, it is currently a museum for the Imperial Era, and is one of the best tourist experiences in Istanbul. Not only does Topkapi Palace have many fantastic examples of Ottoman architecture, the museum houses a large collection of porcelain, robes, weapons, armors, shields, murals, treasure and jewelry. And there are multitudes of incredible Iznik tiles adorning the palace. My biggest thrill was the Imperial Treasury — four rooms Þlled with unbelievable treasures, the most unbelievable being the Spoonmaker’s Diamond weighing in at an astonishing 86 carats. My friend Jeanie and I stood in front of it so long the guards became suspicious and made us move along. There are relics of the Prophet Mohammed inside the palace, and those rooms are packed. Dining in Istanbul is outstanding. You choose from traditional dishes and seafood served from street carts, Þsh markets, or in charming restaurants. Turkey introduced coffee to Europe. Go ahead, have a cup of this mystic elixir. Two members of my group attended a belly dance/dining experience in Istanbul that was reportedly spell- binding. The dancing ability of the women was astonishing to my friends. Istanbul is a wonderful window into ancient times, a fabulous destination where you are guaranteed to lose yourself in culture and history. Don’t miss out on any opportunity to experience Istanbul for yourself.
07 December 2009
http://www.mcalesternews.com/homepage/local_story_341094943.html?keyword=leadpicturestory
The Hippodrome of Constantinople | Sultanahmet Square of Istanbul
Blue Mosque and Obelisk in Sultanahmet Istanbul Old City
Seeing people enjoying their Sunday afternoons on the calm lush green lawns of Hippodrome, it is quite difficult to believe that this is the same place where numerous royal celebrations, chariot races and deadly massacres took place many centuries ago.
And when the park is adorned with white lights during the month of Ramadan along with elephant rides arranged for kids, all the signs of its complex past are completely wiped away. It has been aptly named as ‘At Meydani’ or ‘Sultanahmet Meydani’ (Horse Square or Horse Grounds in Turkish) due to its function in the Ottoman period.
The word hippodrome owes its name to the two Greek words namely ‘hippos’ meaning horse and ‘dromos’ meaning racing path or track. The face that the favorite pastimes of the people in the ancient times were chariot racing and horse racing made hippodromes a peculiar and prominent feature of almost all the Greek cities in the Byzantine, Roman and even the Hellenistic periods.
The first Hippodrome was built in the Greek times when the city was called Byzantium. The Hippodrome was the heart and soul of not just the political life but also the sporting life of Constantinople (the city of Constantine the Great). It was a Greek stadium that was a venue for several horse races as well as polo games on the track built by Septimus Severus between 203 A.D. and 324 A.D.
Constantine the Great enlarged and renovated the Hippodrome that was modeled on Rome’s the Circus Maximus. He used several stone walls and vaults for providing support. The Hippodrome continued to be a scene of riots and games in the 500 years of the history of Ottoman Empire.
The only difference between the two hippodromes was that just four chariot races could be organized at a time in the Roman Circus while the Greek hippodrome had the capacity to hold more than ten races at a time as the size of the latter was larger than the former, measuring nearly 400 feet.
The Hippodrome was nearly 427 feet wide and 1476 feet long. It had 40 rows of seats and a capacity of accommodating nearly 100,000 supporters. Due to political rivalries between the various merchant guilds including Greens, Blues, Reds and Whites. The result was the Nika Revolt in 532 A.D. which eventually caused extensive damage to the Hagia Sophia (Ayasofya) Church and the imperial palace.
More than 30,000 people were massacred as a punishment on the orders of Justinian the Great after he regained power. Later on during the Fourth Crusade, the Ottomans conquered the city in 1453. These Turks had simply no interest in horse racing and did not bother to do any restoration efforts for the Hippodrome. Instead, they started using the Hippodrome as a marble quarry and the Hippodrome was forgotten slowly and gradually.
During its peak glory, the Hippodrome was adorned with a huge collection of historical monuments and trophies that were either made by skilled artisans of the city or brought from different corners of the Ottoman Empire.
The Column of Constantine or the Walled Obelisk (Magnetic Column/the Colossus) is located at the southern corner of the park. It was built on the instructions of Constantine VII Porphyrogenitus in the 10th century and was decorated with brass plates and bronze plaques. However, these embellishments were melted to mint coins in 1204 by the Crusaders.
Situated at a short distance away is the Serpentine Column originally erected in front of Delphi’s Temple of Apollo by Greek city-states to celebrate their win over the Persians. However, the column is only 25 percent of its original size of 8 m. the column is made of bronze and has three intertwined serpents. Earlier, it had a gold bowl that was provided support by heads of three gold serpents. However, the heads were believed to have been lost until one head was rediscovered during the restoration work of the famous Ayasofya.
Another outstanding monument of architecture in the city happens to be the Obelisk of Tutmosis III. The obelisk weighing 60 tons was brought by Emperor Theodosius I. it is made of granite with hieroglyphics depicting the glory of the god Horus and the pharaoh. It was brought to the square in 390 A.D. nearly two millennia after the time of its carving. Almost two-third of the obelisk was damaged or lost during transportation. At present, the obelisk is nearly 65 feet high.
In the north corner of the Hippodrome lays the Fountain of Willhelm II, also known as Alman Cesmesi. It was built originally in Germany and later on assembled in the city of Istanbul to mark the emperor’s city visit in 1895. One can find the signatures of Sultan Abdulhamid and the German monarch in golden mosaics inside the dome of the fountain.
The statue of four bronze horses happened to be the crowning glory of the Hippodrome. However, it was looted and taken away to the Basilica of St. Marco in Venice during the lootings in the city in the Fourth Crusade in 1204.
Another exquisite monument of historical architecture located in the northern corner of the Hippodrome is the Million Stone. Modeled on the Millaiarium Aureum, it was erected by Julius Caesar in Rome.
The Hippodrome was a favorite venue for numerous important and lavish occasions including circumcision ceremony of Sultan Ahmed III’s sons which spanned for days together.
