Istanbul’s baths make a comeback
For many of the seven million tourists who come to Istanbul every year, a trip to a hamam, or traditional Turkish bath, is a highlight of their visit - an authentic Ottoman-era experience.
Cagaloglu Hamami in Sultanahmet Istanbul Turkey
Dressed only in a skimpy cotton wrap and noisy wooden sandals, you sit in a drippingly humid steam room, under a perforated stone dome from which shafts of light stream down.
You are then led by beefy tellaks, traditional masseurs, to a heated marble slab in the middle of the chamber, and vigorously scrubbed and slapped around, before dousing yourself in cool water from the old brass taps set in the walls..
Perhaps borrowing some ideas from the bathing habits of the city's original Roman inhabitants, the Ottoman conquerors of Istanbul built some 150 hamams there between the 16th and 18th Centuries, and many more in other cities.
Some of the finest were built by Sinan, the most renowned architect of the Ottoman era.
For wealthy women of the period a trip to the hamam was part of the daily routine; they would spend hours there relaxing, chatting, and being groomed by their servants.
Ottoman revival
But over the past century the habit has died, and most of the original Ottoman hamams have fallen into disuse: some demolished, others converted into bars or store rooms.
Of the 48 hamams believed to have been built by Sinan, just a handful survive,, some of them in ruins.
There is a lot more interest in preserving our historical heritage now, and it is not restricted to more spectacular buildings like mosques. Hamams, and even Ottoman-era factories, are being renovated
Historian Nina Ergin
Only a few, like those in tourist areas - such as Cemberlitas, near the Spice Bazaar, and Cagaloglu, a stone's throw from Hagia Sofia and the Blue Mosque - have continued to thrive.
Cemberlitas was built by Sinan in 1584, as a commission from the wife of the Sultan. Cagaloglu was built in a spectacular neo-baroque style in 1741. A water crisis later in the 18th Century forced the Sultan to ban all further hamam construction.
"Most hamams were built to help fund the big foundations that were a feature of the Ottoma era," says historian Nina Ergin.
"They were rented out to fund mosques, hospitals and soup kitchens. But at the end of the 19th Century many of those foundations ran into financial difficulties, and offered rental periods of 200 to 300 years. That's how so many hamams have ended up in private hands."
But in recent years there has been something of an Ottoman revival among people living in Istanbul, and with it renewed interest in classic hamams.
Cemberlitas was substantially renovated in the 1980s; Cagaloglu is now on the market for $16m (£9.77m).
The growth of the spa industry around the world has also inspired some entrepreneurs to build new hamams, in shopping malls, hotels and health centres.
"It is very positive", says Ms Ergin. "There is a lot more interest in preserving our historical heritage now, and it is not restricted to more spectacular buildings like mosques. Hamams, and even Ottoman-era factories, are being renovated."
'Unique buy'
If you happen to have a spare $3m, plus perhaps the same again for restoration, you could buy yourself an authentic Sinan hamam, situated in the historic district of Aya Kapi close to the southern shore of the Golden Horn.
The hamam in Aya Kapi is in need of extensive renovation
It is little more than a pile of stones now; trees have taken root in its crumbling dome, and inside it is being used to store timber.
Estate agent Okan Aksudogan took me up a rickety ladder to see the magnificent brick structure inside the dome.
He believes that for the right kind of investor, at $3m the hamam is a bargain.
"He could probably get his money back, after renovation, in 10 to 15 years," he says. "But the asked price is maybe not the true value, it is just the value put on the business. But what you buy is something unique."
Planning regulations for historic buildings like this are very strict these days. Nina Ergin says that makes it difficult to find investors willing to put in the time and money needed to restore them.
But Mr Aksudogan hopes that either a cultural foundation, or a wealthy individual with a love of classical Ottoman architecture, can be persuaded to bring the Aya Kapi hamam back to its former glory.
(bbc.co.uk , Sunday, 25 October 2009)
Top 10 Tourist Sites of Istanbul
Istanbul Sight -Blue Mosque - Hagia Sophia
If you are on a short visit to Istanbul and want to experience the richness of the place in your visit, then you might feel confused as to which places to visit and which to keep for the next time. This is because Istanbul is a any tourist’s delight as it has not just one or two riches but a plethora of beautiful and famous historical places to be explored. However, the following list of places will help you get the best of Istanbul in the shortest possible time----
Hagia Sophia Sultanahmet Istanbul Turkey
Hagia Sophia —Also known as Aya Sofya , this ancient monument was built in 532-537 A.D. during the rule of Justinian. Being one of the masterpieces of architectural design, it has Byzantine mosaics that date back from sixth century to the 10th century. It was converted to an Ottoman mosque following the fall of Byzantium. Now days, this church works as a museum open for public from Tuesday to Sunday.
Blue Mosque —Popularly known as Sultanahmet Mosque , this magnificent ancient building was made in 1609-1616 by Mehmet Aga. This functioning mosque has nearly 250 windows that allow natural light to flow in making the place appear larger in size. Tourists can enter the mosque once the prayers are over.
Topkapi Palace--- Topkapi Palace was built by Mehmet II after the conquest of Constantinople to be used as his main residence. Built in 1465, the buildings comprise a number of pavilions inside the huge courtyards. This palace used to be the Sultan’s residence and the official government seat. In 1924, Topkapi Palace was converted to a museum and since then, it has on display some of the most exquisite and finest collection of manuscripts, miniatures, jewelry, costumes and some items of religious significance.
Grand Bazaar--- Grand Bazaar is not just any ordinary place to shop. In fact, it has numerous shops, eating joints, banks and a mosque in its periphery. A visit to Istanbul is incomplete without visiting this famous place that is packed to capacity whenever you go there. This covered bazaar was built in 1453 by Mehmet II following his win over the city. It is open from Monday till Saturday.
Basilica Cistern---Meant to provide water to the Great imperial palace, this cistern was made in 532 A.D. by Justinian and is located near the Hippodrome. The cistern has 336 columns of being nearly 26 feet high providing support to the roof. The visitors can enjoy walking along the side ways of the cistern and listen to the mesmerizing sound of water.
Galata Tower--- Built in 1348, this huge tower seemingly touching the skyline used to serve the purpose of a watch tower during the Ottoman period. One can have views of Princes’ Islands from the top of this tower on clear days. The top floors of this tower have been converted to a night club and a restaurant.
Chora Church---This church of St. Savior was constructed in the 11th century at the site where an earlier church used to exist. The remodeling of Chora Church was done during 1315-1321 with the help of funds provided by an elite Byzantine theologian, Theodore Metochites. The walls and the roofs of this church have some of the most exquisite mosaics of the Byzantine period that depict religious scenes of Christ and Virgin Mary among others. The church now serves as a museum after its conversion into a mosque during the 16th century.
Spice Bazaar---As the structure was built from the funds collected through tax imposed on goods imported from Egypt, this bazaar got to be known as Egyptian Bazaar or Misir Carsisi. From spices, caviar, nuts to herbs, the bazaar is a good place to shop for spices of almost all types. This is a perfect place to shop for herbs to get relief from a number of ailments.
Dolmabahce Palace---Designed by the famous Armenian family of architects, this palace was made by Sultan Abdulmecit I in 1856. One can go inside the palace only by guided tour. The palace is still very luxuriant although it was built when the Ottoman Empire was on its last legs.
Eyup Sultan---Eyup is regarded as one of the main Muslim pilgrimage ranking only after Mecca, Medina and Jerusalem. It is the resting place of Eyup Ensari, the “alamdar” or the standard bearer of the Prophet Muhammad. Eyup Ensari was buried outside the city walls following his death during the siege of Constantinople by Arabs in 678 A.D. Meanwhile, a mosque was built around the tomb of Eyup Ensari by Sultan Mehmet II after he conquered Istanbul. Being a sacred place, it is often visited by Muslims for performing prayers and seeking blessings.