The Hagia Sophia of Istanbul Sultanahmet
Istanbul’s Hagia Sophia is indeed the best example of a place which provides a precise and an authentic division of the eastern and the western cultures. The location on the map shows the point where two opposite cultures come together violently.
Going by the location of Hagia Sophia on the map, the name of the country is Turkey and the city is Istanbul (earlier known as Constantinople). The Hagia Sophia(‘Holy Wisdom’ in Greek), which has been the bone of contention between the Western and the Eastern worlds for nearly one and a half millennium lies on a small Peninsula somewhere in the Black Sea.
The present building of Hagia Sophia that we see today in the city of Istanbul (earlier name Constantinople) is the third structure erected at the same place. The original structure was commissioned to be built under the instructions of Constantine the Great. However, it was damaged in the riots of 404 A.D. that took place in Constantinople.
The second church was inaugurated in 405 A.D. by the Emperor Theodosius II. However, it was burnt to ashes in the famous bloody Nika riots in 532 A.D.
The third church or the present building is yet another architectural masterpiece highlighting its cultural and violent history. It is much more grand than the previous ones. This was built under the instructions of Emperor Justinian I between 532 A.D. and 537 A.D. on the location where the two previous churches were built.
Talking about the architecture excellence of this final building of the Eastern Roman Empire, it is worth mentioning that the Hagia Sophia (Church of the Holy Wisdom of God) is a brilliant example of Byzantinian architecture and it amalgamates the elements of both, namely the Eastern and the Roman architecture in a beautiful manner.
There is a heavy use of natural lighting that floods the building through the windows. Bricks and plaster has been used instead of stones while the sculptures have been replaced by mosaics. The domes of the church rest on the giant piers.
The most prominent and dominating feature of the Hagia Sophia was its dome. The dome rests on square piers by using a new technique called a pendentive. The windows of this building have been placed around the base of the sphere, thereby creating dazzling lighting effects, much to the awe and surprise of the visitors. The visitors get the impression that the dome is placed on very less support.
The fact that the Hagia Sophia had been the hot target of the enemies of Rome authenticates its importance as a live example of the rich architecture of ancient times to which it belongs.
Going by the historical records, it was during the Fourth Crusade that several sacred relics were smuggled from the church by western crusaders between 1202 and 1204 when Constantinople was attacked and looted. A number of these sacred relics looted from the Hagia Sophia can still be found in Italy’s St. Mark’s Basilica.
Then nearly two decades later in 1453, Constantinople was named Istanbul after it was conquered by Ottoman emperor Sultan Mehmet el-Fatih, the man who conquered the Ottoman Empire. Mehmet was totally smitten by the beauty of the Hagia Sophia and was firm not to destroy it. So, instead of destroying the relics of the so called ‘infidels’, he decided to convert this church into an imperial mosque. This seemed to be quite simpler for him to as there was no need to change even the name of the building as ‘Church of the Holy Wisdom’ sounded a perfect name for a mosque.
So, all the old Christian inscriptions as well as mosaics were removed and replaced with befitting Muslim mosaics, designs and motifs. However, no changes were made in the original architecture of the structure barring some minor repairs so as to keep the original architecture completely intact. The control of Hagia Sophia came in the hands of Arabs who controlled the entire Turkey. Constantinople was given a new name of Istanbul.
Hence, the conversion of a Christian Basilica into an Arab Mosque and then later into an Arab Mosque exemplifies the combination of Eastern and Roman architecture in this Byzantinian masterpiece of architecture which is an inspiration for many centuries.
There were no major changes in the Hagia Sophia until the previous century. It was in 1934 that Kemal Ataturk, the president of Turkey, decided to convert the church into a museum due to the reason that the church had been the bone of contention between the Western and the Eastern world for centuries together.
So, he took a bold decision and decided to secularize the power of the church by converting it into a public museum. Thus, the museum could now exhibit Muslim and Christian collections with equal ease. This was done to make the structure of Hagia Sophia free from all sorts of political or other controversies.
Still, there is much controversy involving the building of Hagia Sophia and there are a number of people who want to display the Christian relics and mosaics hidden beneath the Arab artifacts at certain places in the Hagia Sophia. However, the general view is that there is a need to find a middle path in order to put a full stop on the religious controversies involving the structure.
At present, the Hagia Sophia, after its conversion into a museum, is a secular building displaying relics of Christian and Muslim religions, thus putting a long tale of conflicts and controversies to a rest at peace.
The Divanyolu at Sultanahmet – Hallmark of the Istanbul
Istanbul old city map
Divanyolu (Court Road) has been known to be the pulse of Istanbul for several centuries and was also popular by the name – the Mese- during the Byzantine period. Although, its boundary is not as wide as it used to be during the ancient times, however, it strongly retains several elements of its character even at the present times.
The fact that the Divanyolu was a place full of danger during the earlier times is well proved by Seyh Galib, a famous poet of the Ottoman Turkish literature, in his poem titled ’Husn u Ask’(meaning Beauty and Love). Galib says that the path in his verse is not smooth-sailing but full of dangers as was the case with the Divanyolu.
The Young Turks found the roads and streets of the Divanyolu to be qu
ite narrow and saddening, especially when compared with the big and broad boulevards of several European cities. Hence, they went forward to extend the width of this avenue but did not follow any planning while doing so. The result was a ruthless widening of this city of Turkey. But, despite of it being poorly planned city, it was regarded to be the widest avenue of Istanbul till the 18th century.
The Divanyolu is marked with a number of imperial palaces, mosques, madrasas, mansions of the famous, hans, fountains, baths and coffeehouses in its map. This avenue is a busy thoroughfare full of colorful life and hustle and bustle of the people living there. It has been a witness to not just official functions and ceremonies but a large number of events of special importance including festivals, weddings, feasts and parades that cover every single aspect of the Ottoman life.
The Divanyolu- A vital organ of Istanbul
The Mese (as it was commonly called in the Byzantine period) that extended from the famous Hagia Sophia square to include Edirnekapi in its sphere was named the Divanyolu. And the reason for it being given the name- the Divanyolu- was simple, that is, because a large number of members of the Divan-i-Humayun (the high court) followed this road every Tuesday while going to the Topkapi Palace. The Divan-i-Humayun was held after the morning prayers at the Topkapi Palace on Tuesdays. So, the Divanyolu became to be the vital artery of Istanbul since its origin.
The fact is that this importance of Divanyolu continued to reign supreme even in the Turkish era. However, it certainly has undergone a noticeable change in the present times. And while wading through the streets of this avenue, you will be greeted by lanes of different sizes, some narrow, some wide and some of the narrow lanes or streets becoming suddenly wide giving you a glimpse of a poor or total lack of planning by the young Turks while trying to make it a wide avenue.
The famous Divanyolu witnessed devastation of several of its buildings during a conflagration in the year 1865. And this opportunity to redesign this avenue was immediately seized upon by Kececizade Fuad Pasa, a renowned statesman of the times. He leveled several famous buildings and destroyed many others to make the streets wide.
Janissaries’ cries
The Divanyolu went through several reconstruction projects which denied it of its historical hallmarks in subsequent periods. One such reconstruction project took place in 1934, the year when the City Report was made. This resulted in renaming of the road from Atik Ali Pasa Mosque till Beyazit Square as Yeniceriler Caddesi (Avenue of the Janissaries).
Although, this new name did neither enter in the official records nor was mentioned in the street signs. However, you must be aware of an important link that exists between the Divanyolu and the Janissaries. The cries of the Janissaries can be heard quite clearly when you come close to the walls of any of the old buildings of this avenue. These cries of the Janissaries were their expression to air their grievances while marching from the famous Hippodrome to the Sultanahmet.
Even after going through numerous episodes of natural and man-made disasters as well as reconstructions including earthquakes, fires and uprisings, the fact is that in terms of historical importance, the Divanyolu still is regarded to be one of the riches areas of Istanbul.
Beginning point of all roads
While taking a stroll from the famous Hagia Sophia to the Beyazit, you will reach the Million Column, known during the Byzantine Era to be the beginning point of not just the Divanyolu but of various roads. And the next destinations that you will reach on your way will be the Water Tower followed by the Besir Aga Mosque. Of course, your next destination ought to be two mad Judas trees in a place which looks like a small park with a pool.
For those of you feeling hungry while walking, no need to despair because the historic Sultanahmet Koftecisi just on your right side will offer you an inviting and mouth watering meal of Turkish kofte (meatballs) served with garnishing of onion salad. And, you will also relish eating semolina halvah here to satiate your sweet taste buds. Once having your full with eating; now you can head for your next destination which lies just adjacent to the place where you had your sumptuous lunch.
It is the Cevri Kalfa Primary School which was commissioned for a female slave by Sultan Mahmud II who had saved the Sultan from the claws of death. Just a short distance away on the opposite side is the first mosque made by Turks in the city of Istanbul called the Firuzaga Mosque. Although this mosque, built in 1491 on the Mese, is quite small in size, however, still, it happens to be one of the finest examples of classical proportion successfully symbolizing the aesthetics of the urbanites and the beginning of new era.
When turning to the right, the next destination that lies not far away happens to be Hoca Rustem Sokak. This street has a famous work by Mimar Sinan (an architect of the Ottoman times), the Madrasa of White Eunuch Mehmed Aga. And as you continue move on a further few steps towards the right, you will be greeted by an Ottoman ‘pantheon’. This happens to be walled space that is surrounded by a school building, a fountain, a public drinking fountain and a mausoleum (built for Mahmud II). This famous mausoleum was made by an architect Sarkis Amira Balyan and marked the starting of modern era on the avenue of Divanyolu. Another famous building that lies next on the same street happens to be the Darulfunun (university) built in 1860s although it is another fact that it was seldom used as a university and more used for other means. At present, it functions as the Museum of the Press.
New names---
The mausoleum which once had a small yet an elegant mosque, a huge han and the Koprulu Library in its neighborhood, now only has the library as the other two have been replaced by concrete buildings.
Another exquisite and distinct classical piece of architecture from the hands of Mimar Sinan happens to be the Cemberlitas Bath that is just adjacent to the Museum of the Press. This bath is indeed a beautiful example of the typical hamam architecture and now resembles a bird as it was deprived of its cooling section during the widening of the street that took place in the year 1865. A part of the Koprulu Library was also demolished in the same year to make the street wide.
At the intersection of the Babiali Caddesi, the Divanyolu assumes a new name of Klodfarer Caddesi which it got from the works of the two famous French writers, namely Claude Farrere and Pierre Loti. These French writers made the Divanyolu avenue immortal through their works. Pierre Loti was a friend of the Turks and his house can be still be seen in the avenue of the Divanyolu.
Moving on, your next destination ought to be the Forum of Constantine, which is regarded as the most popular square of Byzantium. Constantine, the founder of the city, erected a column in the Ottoman period named Tavukpazari (Chicken Market). However, falling prey to natural calamities like earthquakes and fire, this column has been provided support with iron hoops, hence, it is known by the new name ‘hooped column’.
Earlier in the Ottoman times, a big double-storeyed han that was the residence of envoys to the Ottoman capital was located just opposite this column. However, the fire of 1865 rendered severe damage to this han which became a part of the mosque of the Atik Ali Pasa.
Turning towards the right, we meet Corlulu madrasa and the Sinan Pasa madrasa at Carsikapi. Nearly all the madrasas on the Divanyolu function as charitable foundations to preserve the Ottoman-Turkish culture.
To conclude, we can say that with its busy streets, colorful crowd and historic structures, the Divanyolu is, indeed, the heart of Istanbul.
