Where sugar meets spice | sultanahmet1.com
Intrigued by Ottoman flavours, Caroline Baum rolls up her sleeves and takes a cooking class in Istanbul.
Turkish delights ... a market stall.
I've just been handed a scimitar. At least that's what it looks like - a weapon that might have been used to lop off disloyal heads at the sultan's court in the nearby Topkapi Palace. It turns out to be the Turkish equivalent of a mezzaluna: a crescent-shaped blade, called a zirh, very large and heavy, which takes some getting used to.
The chef and teacher, Feyzi Yildirim, shows me how to rock it from side to side vigorously and then points to a mountain of fresh dill, parsley and coriander. He wants them chopped finely and I have already discovered that he's pretty exacting, even though he speaks no English. Pointing, at times, can be an eloquent method of expressing disapproval: earlier I was asked to pound and knead a bucket of salted and finely chopped onions to extract their juices. When my hands are knuckle-deep in liquid, Yildirim insists that it is not enough. But he does have a neat trick for removing the smell of onion from my hands: a quick rub with a cut lemon.
I've joined a hands-on, half-day class at Cooking Alaturka, around the corner from the Blue Mosque in Istanbul's historic precinct of Sultanahmet. There are seven others in our group and an even gender spread. We're preparing a five-course lunch of traditional Ottoman home cooking and, what's more, we've a schedule to stick to. The school, based on the model of the Cordon Bleu, is open to the public for lunch.
Alaturka is the brainchild of a determined expatriate Dutch woman and former hotelier, Eveline Zoutendijk. Trained at Cordon Bleu in Paris and after a career in hotel management in New York, she fell in love with Istanbul, learnt the fiendishly difficult language and settled here 12 years ago. Briskly efficient, Zoutendijk runs the classes herself, translating Yildirim's instructions, adding her own hints, juggling pans from stove to oven. She also has a great list of recommended restaurants, which helps visitors navigate a bewildering array of options. On request, she leads tours of produce markets, avoiding the tourist traps such as the Spice Market.
Zoutendijk has studied the subtleties and diversity of Turkish food to devise the seven menus in her school's repertoire. "I love the variety of fresh bold flavours, the foraged ingredients in salads and mezze, the kebab-house culture, the sharing of dishes, the strong emphasis on vegetables such as okra, which some of our clients are a bit unsure about; the regional variations in cheeses," she says. "Turkey is justifiably proud of being one of only seven countries that can feed itself."
All her clients "wants to do something with eggplant" and some are "a bit unsure about the yoghurt soup until they make it. When they look at the list of ingredients, their faces fall but when they taste it ... big smiles." She does not teach with seafood ("too expensive") or bread, because she doesn't have the right oven for it, and she says she doesn't have the right ventilation for grilling kebabs. Students receive recipes to keep, which means they can concentrate on technique instead of scribbling notes.
We're making a soup of red lentil, bulgur, mint and red pepper that is quick and great for freezing; imam bayildi, a classic stuffed eggplant dish that is good hot or cold; dill and cheese pancakes; stuffed vine leaves; and syrup-soaked biscuits topped with the most vibrantly green, fresh pistachios I've seen.
There's plenty to do: we each find a spot in the compact kitchen to roll out dough, beat a batter or dice tomatoes. All of us have trouble making the eggplant boats that we are going to stuff and braise. We either make them too deep or too shallow and we score them incorrectly on the inside, which means they will collapse while cooking. We are all surprised at how easy it is to stuff vine leaves once you know the folding and rolling secret, which is just like learning to make hospital corners in bed-making.
Our favourite is making a round ball of dough and flinging it hard on to a baking tin, before pressing a fresh hazelnut on top ("no fingerprints!" urges Yildirim). This is the first stage of our ultra-sweet dessert. Zoutendijk cuts down the sugar in this and most recipes by more than a third to accommodate non-Turkish palates, but it is still sweeter than we are used to.
There's a moment of panic when people walk in off the street for lunch and we realise we're running late but we set up a proper production line to plate and garnish. Yildirim is a stickler for presentation and we are a bit sloppy. But when we sit down, it's with a real sense of achievement.
Once we've left Alaturka, we become bolder about what we eat during the rest of our time in Istanbul. We sample salep from a street vendor, a hot, milky drink made from dried orchid root. We find slivers of Turkish pastrami, called pastirma, and sharp, herby cheese from the Kurdish town of Van at a classy deli called Namli, behind the Spice Market. We long to cook the sea bass displayed with its red gills turned out as proof of freshness in the markets at the Galata bridge. At a fantastic lunch place called Ciya, on the Asian side of the city, we choose a salad of braised nettles and a strange, chewy dessert of mastic, the resin that was the original ingredient in chewing gum. Our palates recognise the sweet-and-sour blend of pomegranate molasses and cinnamon, the creaminess of fresh chick peas. And when we're peckish after a morning of mosques, there's always a simit stall selling the Turkish version of a pretzel covered in toasted sesame seeds.
Getting there
Malaysia Airlines flies to Istanbul for about $1830 via Kuala Lumpur (8 hours and 11 hours). Qatar Airways flies for about $1756 via Doha (14 hours and 5 hours). (Fares are low-season return from Sydney and Melbourne including tax.) Australians require a visa for Turkey, which can be bought on arrival for about $US20 ($23).
Cooking there
Cooking Alaturka, at 72a Akbiyik Caddesi, Sultanahmet, has a three-hour class for €60 ($95) a person, including five recipes and a sit-down lunch with wine. See cookingalaturka.com.
(The Sidney Morning Herald - 13 Feb 2010)
City break in Istanbul at Sultanahmet
By any standards, Istanbullus are proud of their city. And since you can hardly walk down a street in Sultanhamet without falling over some Byzantine or Ottoman relic they do have a few things to boast about.
But there’s more to Istanbul than antiquity and I was determined to get to the heart of the reputation of this mighty metropolis. Although I was initially unsure about Istanbul as a family holiday destination, it was the presence of my small daughter that was the key.
Within half an hour of arriving she was being called princess and offered the hand of the waiter’s brother’s son in marriage.
Ancient monuments
In the ancient Aya Sofya (Hagia Sophia) she scuttled around on the smooth stone floors and climbed up and down a hundreds-of-years-old wooden platform while we admired the still beautiful frescoes under the might dome.
The Blue Mosque is only a few hundred metres away but quite a contrast in terms of atmosphere and upkeep. The littel one enjoyed the thick carpet, lying on her back and gazing up at the lights and beautiful tiles.
There is a lot to see at the Topkapi Palace and you should allow a whole afternoon. Beyond the spooky harem, the sumptuous apartments, and the eye-popping jewels, the most beautiful structure is the very last you reach after the many courts and gardens. The delicate decoration of the pavilion and romantic views across the Bosphorus to the Galata Tower on the Golden Horn under a dusty apricot sky is matchless.
On Divan Yolu, the main thoroughfare of Sultanhamet, we all enjoyed delicious stuffed aubergine and the ubiquitous bulgher wheat rice salad at Bayan 2 restaurant, before raiding one of the many patisseries for a sweet bite.
Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia in Sultanahmet Istanbul Turkey
Istanbul or Rome?
I wonder if you’ve been travelling too long when you feel compelled to compare every new destination with another place but I did often feel in Beyoglu that I might be wandering the streets of some western European capital.
From the excitement of the youthful population thronging a main drag lined with gem after gem of art nouveau architecture, to the antique tram ding dinging its way down from Taksim square, this district has something for everyone, as well as the most glamorous kebab shops you’ll ever see.
There are pretty arcades with antiques, jewellery and bric a brac, and the regeneration of historic Levantine buildings in the streets off Istikal Caddesi is good to see.
Gulhane Park is a beautiful sight in autumn; kick your feet through the leaves and enjoy a pot of tea and a dish of pistachio ice cream overlooking the Bosphorus in the tea garden below the walls of the Topkapi Palace.
Bazaar ‘til you drop
Near the Grand Bazaar a man sits in the window of his rug shop, completely surrounded by great piles of kilims like an Arabian night. Inside the largest enclosed bazaar in the world it is all glitz and gold and souvenir trinkets but still men sit passing the time of day on low stools; prayer beads dripping from their fingertips and tea delivered in little glasses on a silver tray.
Through the haberdashery quarter porters carry huge loads, bent double with their leather backpacks on the streets leading upward to the Suleymaniye mosque, its interior still shrouded for restoration.
Or head down through the street of Christmas decoration shops to the fragrant delights of the Spice Bazaar. Here you will find scoops of apple tea, towers of nougat, dishes of chestnuts, tubs of Turkish delight, pyramids of spices and baskets of dried flowers.
Across the Golden Horn in Beyoglu join the throngs of young Istanbullus surging down Istikal Caddesi from Taksim square, enjoying the shops, eateries and entertainment.
Crossing continents
Touching down on the Asian side of the Bosphorus is not always on an Istanbul city break schedule but it’s well worth the visit once you get past the noisy traffic of the waterfront. The ferry ride from Eminonu is a pleasure in itself.
The streets are festooned with russet-coloured grapevines in autumn and there’s nothing touristy about a wander through the street markets and funky cafes with the locals.
Turkish shopkeepers take great pride in their displays and in the Kadikoy district you will not fail to be impressed by the carefully-arranged stacks of giant broccoli, shiny shoals of fish and piles of grapevine leaves.
We had a fabulous meal at the fashionable Ciya Sofrasi, which specialises in delicious mounds of baked pilaf fragrant with almonds and raisins; the delicately spiced house kebab; and black mulberry sherbet beverages. For dessert you can’t go past the baked pistachio cream of the Dough Plies or the melt-in-the-mouth Teleme cream figs.
One final mosque
Deep in the back streets of Sultanhamet is a small mosque that is inexplicably missed off many Istanbul itineraries. We had the Sokollu Mehmet Pasa Camii to ourselves, apart from the elderly retainer, and a peaceful sense of spirituality pervades that is missing from the great domes of the city.
The high quality Iznik tiles and original painted wooden ceiling panels complement the graceful dome by Istanbul’s premier historic architect, Mimar Sinan.
The heart of the city
Sitting in the park that separates Aya Sofia and the Blue Mosque, long shadows are cast by cypresses across lawns strewn with yellow plane leaves. Rusty chestnuts line the avenue and the cacophony of competing muezzin cries fades.
Passersby stop to chuck the cheeks of my little daughter, smiling as they imitate her baby babble. In the restaurants fellow diners turn to make friends; an old man trying to make her laugh by showing her the sugar cube held between his teeth as he sips his tea.
She danced to traditional Turkish music on a bandstand off Divan Yolu and grinned at the shoe-shine man. And everywhere she was welcome; the centre of attention with both men and women.
Beyond history and culture, today it’s the warmth of her people that make Istanbul great.
Natasha von Geldern
More information:
Natasha stayed at the stylish Midtown Hotel, which is centrally located in a pleasant street just off Taksim Square, at the top of the district of Beyoglu. Midtown Hotel is a member of Special Hotels of the World. For more information or to book please visit the website or call 020 7380 3658.
Pegasus Airlines flies daily from London Stansted to Istanbul's new Sabiha Gokcen airport from £39.99. A shuttle bus runs hourly from the airport to Taksim Square for around £6.
Natasha used Rough Guides’ Istanbul, an erudite, comprehensive guide to the Turkish capital.
(TravelBite.co.uk Tuesday, 15 Dec 2009)
Finding historic water supply of Istanbul
The ancient villages that peep out from the antique walls in and around the old Istanbul seem to be quite self-contained. These small farm villages are really picturesque which can be still be found by anyone taking a stroll through the old city of Istanbul.
While continuing our talk about many of these exotic ancient villages in Istanbul that are reminiscent of the times gone by, how can we forget to make a mention about the Cistern of Aspar? This ancient cistern is located just in front of Sultan Selim I’s mosque if you follow the route from Carsamba and Fatih. Let us know some really interesting facts about this cistern and its role in the life of the old city of Istanbul.
In the year 1978, a Turkish friend of mine took me to visit and discover the Underground Cistern (Yerebatan Sarnici) that is quite close to the famous Hagia Sophia (Aya Sofya) in Sultanahmet. Although, at that time, the entry to this cistern was not open to general public, hence, we had no choice but to stand on the edge of a dark place to watch the dim shapes of nearly 336 sky-climbing pillars. As we stood in awe and completely amazed by the spectacular view, we felt pleased to hear a steady dripping sound. It was a cistern belonging to the sixth century, I was told.
Although, it did not seem to be of any importance to me, at least at that point of time of the visit, there is no denying the fact that today, the Yerebatan Sarnici happens to be one of the historic attractions of Istanbul. And it actually deserves to be known so for its magnificent walkways, haunting sound of the reed flute and its stupendous lighting, indeed, makes it a special attraction for visitors from far and wide. The tourists watch in awe the spectacular views provided at this place where several fishes can be seen swimming beneath the water.
As one goes a step further trekking besides the beautiful walkways, one feels excited and baffled by the beauty of the Gorgon Medusa (famous for its upside-down head) that adorns the base of one of the columns in the front. However, a noticeable fact that many forget to appreciate the role played by the cistern in providing water supply to not just the old Byzantium but even Constantinople and the city of Istanbul.
The water thus supplied to the city was collected from either of the two sources, that is, from the dense wooded areas of Trakya (Thrace) beyond the walls of the city or from the Belgrade Forest. Yerebatan Sarnici is the best among various water reservoirs, water towers, cisterns and aqueducts that helped it keep flowing. This has been authenticated by the survey conducted between the year 2000 and 2005. According to this survey done by the British Leverhulme Trust, Yerebatan was “one of the greatest achievements of hydraulic engineering known from antiquity.” The report of the survey further mentioned the fact that a large portion of this water source is still untapped because they are unmapped somewhere in the Trakya wooded areas.
The Aqueduct of Valens that is located in the busy Ataturk Bulvari and runs from the famous Golden Horn to the Fatih is one of the most conspicuous historical monuments. It dates back to 375 and runs nearly a kilometer or so. Originally, it might had been attached to a huge network of several pipes that took the water from beyond the Edirnekapi just along the various ridges of Fourth, Fifth and Sixth Hills before reaching Beyazit Meydani. It is believed that this Aqueduct remained in use until the period of 19th century, which proves that it had been preserved well.
The Aqueduct of Valens happens to be the one and only structure that seems to have survived within the walled city. However, if you venture outside towards the Belgrade Forest, you will be greeted by several more such structures. Some of the famous among these include the Uzunkemer (Long Aqueduct) and the Egrikemer (Crooked Aqueduct). Both of these were the designer creations of Mimar Sinan, who had carved a special niche and name for his exquisitely made mosques during the power of Sultan Suleyman (the Magnificent). Apart from the above named structures made by Sinan, another famous structure from this architect includes Maglova Kemeri (Maglova Aqueduct). This structure dates back to the period of Emperor Justinian. However, there are several other beautiful historic reservoirs of water that are buried in the Belgrade Forest. These reservoirs still have water for Istanbul.
All the aqueducts left a noticeable mark on the city’s horizon, just as the stupendous ‘su terazı’ stone towers that were instrumental in dragging water from the gradients. One of them can be still be found in Sultanahmet just near the Milyon monument and at the entry point of the Yerebatan Sarnici. Also, there happen to be several other situated around the city of Istanbul including the famous three – one in Kilyos and the second one besides the Haydarpasa’s Karacaahmet Cemetery.
Additionally, there were a few other buildings that were involved in providing water in their neighborhoods. The famous among these include the ‘taksim’ (water distribution point). It was recently opened for general public and comprised of quite long building made of stones. This building closes the Taksim Square, the area which was once used for storage of water, and also the octagonal building situated just nearby which distributed the water around the nearby area. But there is no denying the fact that ubiquitous cesmes or fountains that still exist in various neighborhoods of the ancient city are indeed the final pieces of this network. Many of them still have attached brick storage tanks.
Several fountains were exquisite structures including the Hekimoglu Ali Pasa fountain, the Tophane Fountain at Kabatas, the Sultan Ahmet III Fountain that is situated just in front of the famous Topkapi Palace, and the Saliha Valide Hatun fountain in Azapkapi. Efforts are being made to restore many of these fountains back to their original glory and splendor by the technically advanced water-selling companies. The sebils, which were paired with the cesmes, were small kiosks that were enclosed by grills. These grills were usually attached to the outer wall of the mosque. It was used to provide water to the thirsty people passing by.
The huge network of cisterns that was involved in storing water always kept quite low profile, as compared to the fountains, towers and the aqueducts. In fact, the cisterns seemed to have been forgotten by the city even as the population reduced resulting in less water requirement. Although, it may seem a bit hard to believe, but the truth is that the famous Yerebatan Sarnici also remained forgotten and neglected for almost centuries together. It was only discovered by Western visitor, Petrus Gyllius, a Frenchman of 16th century.
The popularity of Yerebatan among the tourists led to an increased interest in several other cisterns that dot the landscape of the city. For example, a cistern located just near Divan Yolu and known as the Binbirdirek Sarnici has become an entertainment center. Another cistern, the Theodosius Sarnici, which is just behind the Eminonu Belediyesi, is likely to be opened to the general public. Another ancient cistern now houses a restaurant named the Sarnic Restaurant while another functions as the Sultan Sarnic restaurant in Carsamba.
It is yet to be ascertained about the exact role of the open-air cisterns in providing water to different parts of the city. It is because some people argue that the water stored in these cisterns was left bare in the air so as to be purified. However, the fact remains that they were large storage houses of water used for irrigating fields nearby.
The ancient villages that peep out from the antique walls in and around the old Istanbul seem to be quite self-contained. These small farm villages are really picturesque which can be still be found by anyone taking a stroll through the old city of Istanbul.
While continuing our talk about many of these exotic ancient villages in Istanbul that are reminiscent of the times gone by, how can we forget to make a mention about the Cistern of Aspar? This ancient cistern is located just in front of Sultan Selim I’s mosque if you follow the route from Carsamba and Fatih. Let us know some really interesting facts about this cistern and its role in the life of the old city of Istanbul.
In the year 1978, a Turkish friend of mine took me to visit and discover the Underground Cistern (Yerebatan Sarnici) that is quite close to the famous Hagia Sophia (Aya Sofya) in Sultanahmet. Although, at that time, the entry to this cistern was not open to general public, hence, we had no choice but to stand on the edge of a dark place to watch the dim shapes of nearly 336 sky-climbing pillars. As we stood in awe and completely amazed by the spectacular view, we felt pleased to hear a steady dripping sound. It was a cistern belonging to the sixth century, I was told.
Although, it did not seem to be of any importance to me, at least at that point of time of the visit, there is no denying the fact that today, the Yerebatan Sarnici happens to be one of the historic attractions of Istanbul. And it actually deserves to be known so for its magnificent walkways, haunting sound of the reed flute and its stupendous lighting, indeed, makes it a special attraction for visitors from far and wide. The tourists watch in awe the spectacular views provided at this place where several fishes can be seen swimming beneath the water.
As one goes a step further trekking besides the beautiful walkways, one feels excited and baffled by the beauty of the Gorgon Medusa (famous for its upside-down head) that adorns the base of one of the columns in the front. However, a noticeable fact that many forget to appreciate the role played by the cistern in providing water supply to not just the old Byzantium but even Constantinople and the city of Istanbul.
The water thus supplied to the city was collected from either of the two sources, that is, from the dense wooded areas of Trakya (Thrace) beyond the walls of the city or from the Belgrade Forest. Yerebatan Sarnici is the best among various water reservoirs, water towers, cisterns and aqueducts that helped it keep flowing. This has been authenticated by the survey conducted between the year 2000 and 2005. According to this survey done by the British Leverhulme Trust, Yerebatan was “one of the greatest achievements of hydraulic engineering known from antiquity.” The report of the survey further mentioned the fact that a large portion of this water source is still untapped because they are unmapped somewhere in the Trakya wooded areas.
The Aqueduct of Valens that is located in the busy Ataturk Bulvari and runs from the famous Golden Horn to the Fatih is one of the most conspicuous historical monuments. It dates back to 375 and runs nearly a kilometer or so. Originally, it might had been attached to a huge network of several pipes that took the water from beyond the Edirnekapi just along the various ridges of Fourth, Fifth and Sixth Hills before reaching Beyazit Meydani. It is believed that this Aqueduct remained in use until the period of 19th century, which proves that it had been preserved well.
The Aqueduct of Valens happens to be the one and only structure that seems to have survived within the walled city. However, if you venture outside towards the Belgrade Forest, you will be greeted by several more such structures. Some of the famous among these include the Uzunkemer (Long Aqueduct) and the Egrikemer (Crooked Aqueduct). Both of these were the designer creations of Mimar Sinan, who had carved a special niche and name for his exquisitely made mosques during the power of Sultan Suleyman (the Magnificent). Apart from the above named structures made by Sinan, another famous structure from this architect includes Maglova Kemeri (Maglova Aqueduct). This structure dates back to the period of Emperor Justinian. However, there are several other beautiful historic reservoirs of water that are buried in the Belgrade Forest. These reservoirs still have water for Istanbul.
All the aqueducts left a noticeable mark on the city’s horizon, just as the stupendous ‘su terazı’ stone towers that were instrumental in dragging water from the gradients. One of them can be still be found in Sultanahmet just near the Milyon monument and at the entry point of the Yerebatan Sarnici. Also, there happen to be several other situated around the city of Istanbul including the famous three – one in Kilyos and the second one besides the Haydarpasa’s Karacaahmet Cemetery.
Additionally, there were a few other buildings that were involved in providing water in their neighborhoods. The famous among these include the ‘taksim’ (water distribution point). It was recently opened for general public and comprised of quite long building made of stones. This building closes the Taksim Square, the area which was once used for storage of water, and also the octagonal building situated just nearby which distributed the water around the nearby area. But there is no denying the fact that ubiquitous cesmes or fountains that still exist in various neighborhoods of the ancient city are indeed the final pieces of this network. Many of them still have attached brick storage tanks.
Several fountains were exquisite structures including the Hekimoglu Ali Pasa fountain, the Tophane Fountain at Kabatas, the Sultan Ahmet III Fountain that is situated just in front of the famous Topkapi Palace, and the Saliha Valide Hatun fountain in Azapkapi. Efforts are being made to restore many of these fountains back to their original glory and splendor by the technically advanced water-selling companies. The sebils, which were paired with the cesmes, were small kiosks that were enclosed by grills. These grills were usually attached to the outer wall of the mosque. It was used to provide water to the thirsty people passing by.
The huge network of cisterns that was involved in storing water always kept quite low profile, as compared to the fountains, towers and the aqueducts. In fact, the cisterns seemed to have been forgotten by the city even as the population reduced resulting in less water requirement. Although, it may seem a bit hard to believe, but the truth is that the famous Yerebatan Sarnici also remained forgotten and neglected for almost centuries together. It was only discovered by Western visitor, Petrus Gyllius, a Frenchman of 16th century.
The popularity of Yerebatan among the tourists led to an increased interest in several other cisterns that dot the landscape of the city. For example, a cistern located just near Divan Yolu and known as the Binbirdirek Sarnici has become an entertainment center. Another cistern, the Theodosius Sarnici, which is just behind the Eminonu Belediyesi, is likely to be opened to the general public. Another ancient cistern now houses a restaurant named the Sarnic Restaurant while another functions as the Sultan Sarnic restaurant in Carsamba.
It is yet to be ascertained about the exact role of the open-air cisterns in providing water to different parts of the city. It is because some people argue that the water stored in these cisterns was left bare in the air so as to be purified. However, the fact remains that they were large storage houses of water used for irrigating fields nearby.
