1600 year old Harbor of Theodosius in Istanbul
The Harbor of Theodosius in Istanbul dates back to the period of 4th century A.D. It was unearthed in Yenikapi in Istanbul. Various works of excavation in Yenikapi, Sirkeci and Uskudar count among the splendor remains of archaeology belonging to the periods ranging from Ottoman, Roman, Byzantine, Ancient Greek and Neolithic times.
Istanbul, which happens to be capital of these two empires for several centuries has been successfully preserving its importance in all the periods of history till now. Travelers from the world over have been inspired by the majestic beauty of the districts of Pera and Galata, the Golden Horn, the Virgin’s Tower and its grand mosques atop the seven hills. However, as of now, the city is facing the problem of transportation which originated way back in the 19th century and persists even today. The problem was meant to be solved by the construction of rail link projects namely Marmaray and the Metro. These two projects by the Department of Transportation will help in making a rail link between Asian and the European continents through a tunnel beneath the Bosphorus.
In the year 2004, the Istanbul Archaeological Museums undertook the work of archaeological excavations around the terminals before proceeding with the digging work for the Marmaray and the Metro construction. These excavations which are being carried out by the efforts of dig teams have unearthed several cultural treasures of historical importance for Istanbul.
The Harbor of Theodosius, which is regarded to be the most prominent harbor of the Byzantine era, is the result of these archaeological excavations. This harbor was unearthed in Yenikapi (‘Vlanga’ in the Ottoman times). The district of Yenikapi was known to be the fruit and vegetable garden of Istanbul. it has also become known by reading the notes of the travelers visiting Istanbul during the mid-16th century that the Harbor of Theodosius, built during the 4th century and used till 7th century was used as a truck garden after it silted up and became a part of the mainland.
Excavations undertaken at Yenikapi
Although the location of this harbor of Istanbul, namely, the Theodosius’ harbor was known from the maps in the ancient times, however, there was no knowledge about its exact size, position and the layout of this harbor which played an important role in the economy of the Byzantine period.
Founded on the crossroads between the Balkans and Anatolia and the pathway extending from the Aegean right up to the Black Sea, Byzantion’s location was a great contributor to the development of the city, so mush so that it dominated various commercial routes.
To meet the growing needs of the expanding capital of the Eastern Roman Empire, Theodosius I commissioned the construction of the Theodosius Harbor between 379-395 A.D. so, a breakwater extending from east to west along the south way of a natural bay was built for creating this harbor. And a large tower that stood at the far end for keeping a guard on the entrance of the harbor was among several other structures and silos for keeping the grain brought by big ships from Alexandria and neighboring ports that stood around the harbor. Sources claim that the Alexandria silo was the only silo of the city that was in wide use during the 10th century when this harbor silted up.
During the archaeological excavation undertaken in the harbor, 34 ships were excavated out of which 21 were in the Metro while 13 were in the Marmaray excavations. Once again, this harbor silted up from the alluvion brought by the waters of the Lycos (Bayrampasa) River which emptied in the natural bay. Apart from the alluvion, the built of enormous silt was also the result of the construction and farming carried out in the city.
From the excavations, it came to the notice that the majority of the shipwrecks in the Theodosius Harbor are at the eastern side nearing the entrance of the harbor. While the harbor was thought to have been silted up from the western end towards the east, the eastern end continued to be in wide use till a natural calamity that took place in the 10th or the beginning of the 11th century rendered extensive damage to the ships there.
The YK 1 ship that carried amphorae from the Marmara Island and was anchored here was claimed by the excavations to have been sunk. The YK 12 was another shipwreck that was found in the excavations in the area of the harbor. Several fragments of amphorae along with 16 intact amphorae were found on this YK 12. Although, at present, the exact cause of the disaster that struck these ships cannot be found, however, the assumption is some natural disaster or tragedy including tsunami or a storm might be the possible reason behind the cause of the disaster to these ships.
The history of Istanbul has got some very crucial data from the architectural remains recovered to the western side of the Yenikapi excavation area in the work being carried out in the 3rd and 2nd Zone towards the east. A quay consisting of stone blocks of rectangular shape has been found at the western edge within the breakwater.
The excavations in the Metro area uncovered a church building that was believed to be built in the 13th century A.D. when large amount of silt was piling up in the harbor. And around this church building were found twenty-three graves. The excavations also unearthed a gold coin belonging to the time of Justinian the Great (527-565 A.D.).
In the Yenikapi excavations being carried out under the Marmaray and Metro Project, nearly 25,000 artifacts have been unearthed so far. And the most distinguishing factor or such findings happens to be the vital information provided by them regarding day-to-day life, economy, trade, culture and religious aspects of the period to which they belong. Some of the findings uncovered during the excavations include hawsers of the sunken ships, inscribed image of a ship on an amphora that belongs to the 10th century, iron and stone anchors and baked clay tablets with names, place of origin of the owners of the ship inscribed on them. All such findings also provide important information regarding the types of ships and the shipping during the period.
Apart from the above named findings, there are nearly 2,500 items made of wood including combs, different varieties of spoons, bath clogs etc. that have been found by the excavation work. Also, a Christ figure, tools of bone and ivory, a bronze balance, bronze weights, lead tablets and a scale weight in the form of Athena’s bust throw light on the lifestyle of the period they belong.
Archaeological excavations in Sirkeci
Under the Marmaray Project, the archaeological works being carried out in the eastern and the western shafts and in the south and the north entrance areas of the Rail Station in Sirkeci provide an excellent opportunity for knowing the stratigraphy of the city of Istanbul. In such excavation works, several structural remains that belong to the period ranging from the Early Byzantine to the Byzantine and even the Late Ottoman times along with a considerable number of small items and pottery have been found. These relate important details about the different aspects of the life of these periods.
Archaeological excavations in Uskudar Square
As part of the Marmaray project, a large number of archaeological excavations were undertaken from the year 2004 which continued till the year 2008. These excavations conducted in the Uskudar Square found the remains of the foundation of a bazaar whose existence was although known from a number of other sources but was unable to have been unearthed so far. And to unearth the foundation of this bazaar, the workers involved in the excavation work had to drill up quite deep up to nearly 7 meters. The archaeological remains was found deep in the fill dirt. In the excavations, there were no traces or archaeological remains belonging to the Roman period or the earlier periods. But, the excavations uncovered a huge amount of pottery, along with coins, oil-lamps, stamp seals that dated back to the different periods ranging from the Roman period to the Late Roman period and the Byzantine period.
The Divanyolu at Sultanahmet – Hallmark of the Istanbul
Istanbul old city map
Divanyolu (Court Road) has been known to be the pulse of Istanbul for several centuries and was also popular by the name – the Mese- during the Byzantine period. Although, its boundary is not as wide as it used to be during the ancient times, however, it strongly retains several elements of its character even at the present times.
The fact that the Divanyolu was a place full of danger during the earlier times is well proved by Seyh Galib, a famous poet of the Ottoman Turkish literature, in his poem titled ’Husn u Ask’(meaning Beauty and Love). Galib says that the path in his verse is not smooth-sailing but full of dangers as was the case with the Divanyolu.
The Young Turks found the roads and streets of the Divanyolu to be qu
ite narrow and saddening, especially when compared with the big and broad boulevards of several European cities. Hence, they went forward to extend the width of this avenue but did not follow any planning while doing so. The result was a ruthless widening of this city of Turkey. But, despite of it being poorly planned city, it was regarded to be the widest avenue of Istanbul till the 18th century.
The Divanyolu is marked with a number of imperial palaces, mosques, madrasas, mansions of the famous, hans, fountains, baths and coffeehouses in its map. This avenue is a busy thoroughfare full of colorful life and hustle and bustle of the people living there. It has been a witness to not just official functions and ceremonies but a large number of events of special importance including festivals, weddings, feasts and parades that cover every single aspect of the Ottoman life.
The Divanyolu- A vital organ of Istanbul
The Mese (as it was commonly called in the Byzantine period) that extended from the famous Hagia Sophia square to include Edirnekapi in its sphere was named the Divanyolu. And the reason for it being given the name- the Divanyolu- was simple, that is, because a large number of members of the Divan-i-Humayun (the high court) followed this road every Tuesday while going to the Topkapi Palace. The Divan-i-Humayun was held after the morning prayers at the Topkapi Palace on Tuesdays. So, the Divanyolu became to be the vital artery of Istanbul since its origin.
The fact is that this importance of Divanyolu continued to reign supreme even in the Turkish era. However, it certainly has undergone a noticeable change in the present times. And while wading through the streets of this avenue, you will be greeted by lanes of different sizes, some narrow, some wide and some of the narrow lanes or streets becoming suddenly wide giving you a glimpse of a poor or total lack of planning by the young Turks while trying to make it a wide avenue.
The famous Divanyolu witnessed devastation of several of its buildings during a conflagration in the year 1865. And this opportunity to redesign this avenue was immediately seized upon by Kececizade Fuad Pasa, a renowned statesman of the times. He leveled several famous buildings and destroyed many others to make the streets wide.
Janissaries’ cries
The Divanyolu went through several reconstruction projects which denied it of its historical hallmarks in subsequent periods. One such reconstruction project took place in 1934, the year when the City Report was made. This resulted in renaming of the road from Atik Ali Pasa Mosque till Beyazit Square as Yeniceriler Caddesi (Avenue of the Janissaries).
Although, this new name did neither enter in the official records nor was mentioned in the street signs. However, you must be aware of an important link that exists between the Divanyolu and the Janissaries. The cries of the Janissaries can be heard quite clearly when you come close to the walls of any of the old buildings of this avenue. These cries of the Janissaries were their expression to air their grievances while marching from the famous Hippodrome to the Sultanahmet.
Even after going through numerous episodes of natural and man-made disasters as well as reconstructions including earthquakes, fires and uprisings, the fact is that in terms of historical importance, the Divanyolu still is regarded to be one of the riches areas of Istanbul.
Beginning point of all roads
While taking a stroll from the famous Hagia Sophia to the Beyazit, you will reach the Million Column, known during the Byzantine Era to be the beginning point of not just the Divanyolu but of various roads. And the next destinations that you will reach on your way will be the Water Tower followed by the Besir Aga Mosque. Of course, your next destination ought to be two mad Judas trees in a place which looks like a small park with a pool.
For those of you feeling hungry while walking, no need to despair because the historic Sultanahmet Koftecisi just on your right side will offer you an inviting and mouth watering meal of Turkish kofte (meatballs) served with garnishing of onion salad. And, you will also relish eating semolina halvah here to satiate your sweet taste buds. Once having your full with eating; now you can head for your next destination which lies just adjacent to the place where you had your sumptuous lunch.
It is the Cevri Kalfa Primary School which was commissioned for a female slave by Sultan Mahmud II who had saved the Sultan from the claws of death. Just a short distance away on the opposite side is the first mosque made by Turks in the city of Istanbul called the Firuzaga Mosque. Although this mosque, built in 1491 on the Mese, is quite small in size, however, still, it happens to be one of the finest examples of classical proportion successfully symbolizing the aesthetics of the urbanites and the beginning of new era.
When turning to the right, the next destination that lies not far away happens to be Hoca Rustem Sokak. This street has a famous work by Mimar Sinan (an architect of the Ottoman times), the Madrasa of White Eunuch Mehmed Aga. And as you continue move on a further few steps towards the right, you will be greeted by an Ottoman ‘pantheon’. This happens to be walled space that is surrounded by a school building, a fountain, a public drinking fountain and a mausoleum (built for Mahmud II). This famous mausoleum was made by an architect Sarkis Amira Balyan and marked the starting of modern era on the avenue of Divanyolu. Another famous building that lies next on the same street happens to be the Darulfunun (university) built in 1860s although it is another fact that it was seldom used as a university and more used for other means. At present, it functions as the Museum of the Press.
New names---
The mausoleum which once had a small yet an elegant mosque, a huge han and the Koprulu Library in its neighborhood, now only has the library as the other two have been replaced by concrete buildings.
Another exquisite and distinct classical piece of architecture from the hands of Mimar Sinan happens to be the Cemberlitas Bath that is just adjacent to the Museum of the Press. This bath is indeed a beautiful example of the typical hamam architecture and now resembles a bird as it was deprived of its cooling section during the widening of the street that took place in the year 1865. A part of the Koprulu Library was also demolished in the same year to make the street wide.
At the intersection of the Babiali Caddesi, the Divanyolu assumes a new name of Klodfarer Caddesi which it got from the works of the two famous French writers, namely Claude Farrere and Pierre Loti. These French writers made the Divanyolu avenue immortal through their works. Pierre Loti was a friend of the Turks and his house can be still be seen in the avenue of the Divanyolu.
Moving on, your next destination ought to be the Forum of Constantine, which is regarded as the most popular square of Byzantium. Constantine, the founder of the city, erected a column in the Ottoman period named Tavukpazari (Chicken Market). However, falling prey to natural calamities like earthquakes and fire, this column has been provided support with iron hoops, hence, it is known by the new name ‘hooped column’.
Earlier in the Ottoman times, a big double-storeyed han that was the residence of envoys to the Ottoman capital was located just opposite this column. However, the fire of 1865 rendered severe damage to this han which became a part of the mosque of the Atik Ali Pasa.
Turning towards the right, we meet Corlulu madrasa and the Sinan Pasa madrasa at Carsikapi. Nearly all the madrasas on the Divanyolu function as charitable foundations to preserve the Ottoman-Turkish culture.
To conclude, we can say that with its busy streets, colorful crowd and historic structures, the Divanyolu is, indeed, the heart of Istanbul.
Travel Channel’s Anthony Bourdain visits Istanbul
Anthony Bourdain is in Istanbul (Part 1)
anthony.bourdain.no.reservations.sultanahmet1com @ Yahoo! Video
Anthony Bourdain is in Istanbul (Part 2)
anthony.bourdain.is.in.istanbul.2 @ Yahoo! Video
Anthony Bourdain is in Istanbul (Part 3)