City break in Istanbul at Sultanahmet
By any standards, Istanbullus are proud of their city. And since you can hardly walk down a street in Sultanhamet without falling over some Byzantine or Ottoman relic they do have a few things to boast about.
But there’s more to Istanbul than antiquity and I was determined to get to the heart of the reputation of this mighty metropolis. Although I was initially unsure about Istanbul as a family holiday destination, it was the presence of my small daughter that was the key.
Within half an hour of arriving she was being called princess and offered the hand of the waiter’s brother’s son in marriage.
Ancient monuments
In the ancient Aya Sofya (Hagia Sophia) she scuttled around on the smooth stone floors and climbed up and down a hundreds-of-years-old wooden platform while we admired the still beautiful frescoes under the might dome.
The Blue Mosque is only a few hundred metres away but quite a contrast in terms of atmosphere and upkeep. The littel one enjoyed the thick carpet, lying on her back and gazing up at the lights and beautiful tiles.
There is a lot to see at the Topkapi Palace and you should allow a whole afternoon. Beyond the spooky harem, the sumptuous apartments, and the eye-popping jewels, the most beautiful structure is the very last you reach after the many courts and gardens. The delicate decoration of the pavilion and romantic views across the Bosphorus to the Galata Tower on the Golden Horn under a dusty apricot sky is matchless.
On Divan Yolu, the main thoroughfare of Sultanhamet, we all enjoyed delicious stuffed aubergine and the ubiquitous bulgher wheat rice salad at Bayan 2 restaurant, before raiding one of the many patisseries for a sweet bite.
Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia in Sultanahmet Istanbul Turkey
Istanbul or Rome?
I wonder if you’ve been travelling too long when you feel compelled to compare every new destination with another place but I did often feel in Beyoglu that I might be wandering the streets of some western European capital.
From the excitement of the youthful population thronging a main drag lined with gem after gem of art nouveau architecture, to the antique tram ding dinging its way down from Taksim square, this district has something for everyone, as well as the most glamorous kebab shops you’ll ever see.
There are pretty arcades with antiques, jewellery and bric a brac, and the regeneration of historic Levantine buildings in the streets off Istikal Caddesi is good to see.
Gulhane Park is a beautiful sight in autumn; kick your feet through the leaves and enjoy a pot of tea and a dish of pistachio ice cream overlooking the Bosphorus in the tea garden below the walls of the Topkapi Palace.
Bazaar ‘til you drop
Near the Grand Bazaar a man sits in the window of his rug shop, completely surrounded by great piles of kilims like an Arabian night. Inside the largest enclosed bazaar in the world it is all glitz and gold and souvenir trinkets but still men sit passing the time of day on low stools; prayer beads dripping from their fingertips and tea delivered in little glasses on a silver tray.
Through the haberdashery quarter porters carry huge loads, bent double with their leather backpacks on the streets leading upward to the Suleymaniye mosque, its interior still shrouded for restoration.
Or head down through the street of Christmas decoration shops to the fragrant delights of the Spice Bazaar. Here you will find scoops of apple tea, towers of nougat, dishes of chestnuts, tubs of Turkish delight, pyramids of spices and baskets of dried flowers.
Across the Golden Horn in Beyoglu join the throngs of young Istanbullus surging down Istikal Caddesi from Taksim square, enjoying the shops, eateries and entertainment.
Crossing continents
Touching down on the Asian side of the Bosphorus is not always on an Istanbul city break schedule but it’s well worth the visit once you get past the noisy traffic of the waterfront. The ferry ride from Eminonu is a pleasure in itself.
The streets are festooned with russet-coloured grapevines in autumn and there’s nothing touristy about a wander through the street markets and funky cafes with the locals.
Turkish shopkeepers take great pride in their displays and in the Kadikoy district you will not fail to be impressed by the carefully-arranged stacks of giant broccoli, shiny shoals of fish and piles of grapevine leaves.
We had a fabulous meal at the fashionable Ciya Sofrasi, which specialises in delicious mounds of baked pilaf fragrant with almonds and raisins; the delicately spiced house kebab; and black mulberry sherbet beverages. For dessert you can’t go past the baked pistachio cream of the Dough Plies or the melt-in-the-mouth Teleme cream figs.
One final mosque
Deep in the back streets of Sultanhamet is a small mosque that is inexplicably missed off many Istanbul itineraries. We had the Sokollu Mehmet Pasa Camii to ourselves, apart from the elderly retainer, and a peaceful sense of spirituality pervades that is missing from the great domes of the city.
The high quality Iznik tiles and original painted wooden ceiling panels complement the graceful dome by Istanbul’s premier historic architect, Mimar Sinan.
The heart of the city
Sitting in the park that separates Aya Sofia and the Blue Mosque, long shadows are cast by cypresses across lawns strewn with yellow plane leaves. Rusty chestnuts line the avenue and the cacophony of competing muezzin cries fades.
Passersby stop to chuck the cheeks of my little daughter, smiling as they imitate her baby babble. In the restaurants fellow diners turn to make friends; an old man trying to make her laugh by showing her the sugar cube held between his teeth as he sips his tea.
She danced to traditional Turkish music on a bandstand off Divan Yolu and grinned at the shoe-shine man. And everywhere she was welcome; the centre of attention with both men and women.
Beyond history and culture, today it’s the warmth of her people that make Istanbul great.
Natasha von Geldern
More information:
Natasha stayed at the stylish Midtown Hotel, which is centrally located in a pleasant street just off Taksim Square, at the top of the district of Beyoglu. Midtown Hotel is a member of Special Hotels of the World. For more information or to book please visit the website or call 020 7380 3658.
Pegasus Airlines flies daily from London Stansted to Istanbul's new Sabiha Gokcen airport from £39.99. A shuttle bus runs hourly from the airport to Taksim Square for around £6.
Natasha used Rough Guides’ Istanbul, an erudite, comprehensive guide to the Turkish capital.
(TravelBite.co.uk Tuesday, 15 Dec 2009)
Misir Carsisi (Spice or Egyptian Bazaar) – Every Visitor’s Delight
Egyptian (Spice) Bazaar in Eminonu Istanbul
When visiting Istanbul, one cannot think of missing a visit to the famous markets of the city, including the Grand Bazaar and the Spice Market. An advantage of visiting the Spice Market of Istanbul is that it happens to be more organized and less crowded market as compared to the big Grand Bazaar or the Kapalicarsi.
The Spice Market or the Misir Carsisi is a heaven for getting acquainted with some of the best Turkish delights. You can taste any of the varieties of the spices available in the market.
Talking about its location, it is quite easily reachable. It’s located just behind Yeni Camii or the New Mosque in Eminonu. You can get a tramway to reach this place if you are putting your stay in Sultanahmet. You would notice clearly the Turkish name of the market Misir Carsisi mentioned along with its familiar name Spice Market on the various sign boards in the tram.
If you happen to be first time visitor to the Spice Market, we would like to inform you that you need to pay TYL 1.50 as tram fare and you also need to get tokens before you board the tram. After reaching your destination, you need to walk across the road through the underpass for reaching the New Mosque. Continue walking along the wall of the Mosque to enter the market of spices, that is, the Spice Market.
The Spice Market has just three alleys as compared to the crowded Grand Bazaar having more than 100 alleys. It is a place for spices of almost all the varieties and some sweets too. The variety of spices is really amazing and available in different colors to allure your smelling and seeing power. You can hear vendors calling the visitors in traditional manner and praising their particular spices. You will even notice some vendors asking the passer-bys to try the spices for testing their quality.
You may enter the Spice Market of Istanbul with a pre-conceived notion that it is a place for enjoying ‘lokum’, the famous sweet Turkish delight made of rose water, sugar and starch. But, the fact is that the Spice Market of Istanbul is a place for you to try varieties of Turkish delights, not just the ‘lokum.’ Moreover, you will find fruit juice in place of rose water in lokum along with pieces of fruits including banana, orange, kiwi and any other fruit and nuts.
Yet another inviting and mouth watering Turkish delight available in the Misir Carsisi is figs, either fresh or dried. They are usually available with walnut stuffing and honey or sugar for a sweet taste. Don’t be amazed to hear the vendors calling you to try the Turkish Viagra as figs are often called the by this name in Istanbul.
For those who have a taste for cheeses, you will find sheep and goat cheese served with pistachio in the Spice Market. You can even taste the sample before you find it irresistible to be missed.
What makes Sultanahmet a favorite place for Tourists
Istanbul’s most ancient houses, famous sights and cheap accommodation are located in close vicinity in the Sultanahmet district. The best thing about Sultanahmet is that it can be visited and explored by any visitor without any need of hiring a public transport or taxi.
Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia in Sultanahmet Istanbul Turkey
Its location makes it quite easy to reach. Being located on the European side along the Sea of Marmara on the South, it has all the necessary features of being the most sought-after place. Some of these features include affordable hotels and famous historical monuments located in its map. Moreover, it is also the beginning point for all the boat excursions.
As you enter the main street of Sultanahmet, namely Divan Yolu, you will be greeted by the majestic beauty of huge six minarets of the Blue Mosque. And just on the opposite side is the rival monument of the Blue Mosque. You guessed it right; it is the famous Hagia Sophia. Walk another mile and you will be left spellbound by the enchanting picturesque beauty of the Topkapi Palace.
After enjoying the nature at its best, you now come face to face with some of the most ancient wooden houses of Istanbul which are being reconstructed and restored for making hotels and big restaurants.
After walking for another 15 minutes or so, you will reach the main street that leads to the Grand Bazaar. The good thing about Sultanahmet is that even if you are first time visitor, you won’t have any difficulty in reaching any of the famous places here because the landmarks are displayed in a perfect manner so that any one can follow these without getting lost.
Talking about where to stay while in Sultanahmet and where to eat, we would like to inform you that there are a number of affordable and quality hotels, cafes and restaurants along the Divan Yolu and around. From very costly hotels to affordable ones, you can choose according to your budget. Once you select any place, you will be happy with the excellent service and quality food apart from the views from your hotel room.
In Divan Yolu, you will notice a famous bookshop named ‘Bookshop’. It has some of the best and widest collection of books in several languages on subjects from literature, cookery, art to travel guides and what not.
Walk a few steps and you will come across another shop that sells reproduced miniatures, maps as well as illustrations of books.
A factor which makes Sultanahmet a favored destination of many visitors is that almost all the places can be easily reached on foot. However, one may hire trolley cars or taxis to for sightseeing. Moreover, you may hire boats on rent at Kenedy Caddesi to explore far away places including Beyoglu and Besiktas.
So, there is no denying the fact that easy accessibility, affordable stay, numerous historical monuments and Turkish delights make Sultanahmet a best place to be visited and stayed by any visitor.
