Istanbul’s must-sees
Continental drift ... the Bosphorus and the Hagia Sophia in Istanbul, Turkey.
Explore a little-known palace or take an early morning boat trip on the Bospherus with our guide to the essential Istanbul
The Süleymaniye mosque
The ultimate architectural experience was designed for Süleyman the Magnificent. This wonderful Friday mosque works only if you go in by the front door, not the side door, which is what everyone is encouraged to do. Sinan, the great 16th-century architect, was the absolute master of the framed vista: the modest outer gate leads to the gigantic but austere courtyard gate, which leads to a courtyard about to be submerged in a vast cascade of domes, which leads to a huge wall of grey stone, pierced by windows with miniature tesserae of stained glass, veiled by a curtain of lantern ropes. Fortify yourself first with a bowl of beans at Kanaat (Selmanipak Caddesi, 9). Follow it with a glass of boza (fermented millet) in nearby Vefa Bozacısı (Katip Çelebi Caddesi 104), an impeccable 1920s café with mirrored columns.
Prof Sıddık Sami Onar Caddesi.
Sokullu Mehmet Pasha mosque
Sinan again designed this mosque, just below the Hippodrome. Enter by the front portal, up a marvellous staircase with a pointed arch framing the dome of the ablution fountain, in turn framed by the domes of the mosque. It's even better when it rains and the lead is gleaming. This is a much more intimate affair than Süleymaniye, built not for the Grand Vizier but his wife, Süleyman's granddaughter. Just around the corner stands Küçük Ayasofya, a stunning Byzantine church, now converted into a mosque.
Sehit Çesmesi Sok, Sultanahmet.
Yıldız Palace
The Sale Kiosk of the Yıldız Palace is perhaps Europe's most astonishing Victorian guesthouse. And nobody can stay there, unless – like Kaiser Wilhelm II, Churchill or De Gaulle, for whom the state bed was specially extended – they are invited. But it is open for the public to visit. It is an attractive if rather steep walk through woods to get there. Inside, tiptoe through room after glorious room until you emerge in the ballroom, with the second largest carpet in the world reflected in a long wall of art nouveau mirrors.
Barbaros Bulvarı Yıldız Park, Besiktas.
Walk in the hills
Take a bus from Sariyer, the city's northernmost district, to the hilltop above. Get out a few bends after passing Koç university into unspoilt countryside where there are migrating birds in spring and autumn. If you're feeling energetic you can walk down the hill all the way back to Sariyer.
Princes' Islands
A picnic on Heybeliada or Büyükada, two of the Princes' Islands, close to Istanbul in the sea of Marmara, makes a serene break from the busy city. On Heybeliada, the recommended spot is a small chapel on the hills above the large naval academy in the middle of the island. The end of the island is like a prow of a huge leafy ship. The other spot is Varan on Büyükada, or the best beach, at Eskibag Halka Acik Plaji. This summer a museum dedicated to the islands' heritage will open.
Catch the IDO ferry from the Kabatas (2.80TL each way, 2 hours).
Boat ride
Take a taxi to the Sarıyer ferry dock on the Bosphorus and catch the 7am commuter boat from Sariyer into the city. (You could also pick it up in Yeniköy or Istiniye, if you sleep in.) The boat is almost deserted and the Bosphorus lovely in the morning light.
Art and nightlife
Don't miss Beyoglu – Istanbul's turn-of-the-century downtown – where art galleries jostle with bars and meyhanes (traditional restaurants). Rodeo Gallery (Lüleci Hendek Caddesi 12, +90 212 2935800), and its neighbour DEPO (same address) are unmissable, as is Banu Cennetoglu's space, BAS (Nuri Ziya Sokak 7). Meanwhile the Pera museum (Mesrutiyet Caddesi 65) offers a fantastic collection of orientalist art as well as excellent temporary exhibitions and film seasons. Sidestep the expensive bars and quench your thirst at the lovably eccentric Hotel Buyuk Londra's terrace bar (Mesrutiyet Caddesi 53) or the new Marmara Pera Hotel before descending into the melee of Asmalımescit for fish and rakı at Refik (Sofyalı Sokak 10) or Yakup 2 (Asmalı Mescit Sokak 35).
Day trip
Close to Istanbul, the hauntingly beautiful city of Edirne is Turkey's true gateway to Europe and the Balkans. Home to Sinan's masterpiece, the Selimiye mosque, as well as stunning examples of Ottoman architecture, it remains well off the beaten track. The Eski mosque and Ottoman bridges are astonishing. If possible, find a way into the neglected Murad II mosque, with its unique, Chinese-inspired tiles.
John Scott, editor, and Thomas Roueché, contributing editor, of Turkey's English language Cornucopia Magazine
The Guardian, Saturday 10 April 2010
A passage between the worlds | sultanahmet1.com
After visiting the famous historical museums and mosques of Istanbul, the next thing on your agenda should be to enjoy the unforgettable experience of voyages to the different waterways.
Bosphorus
On your right is Asia and on your left is Europe. So enjoy the ravishing and enigmatic waters of Bosphorus to make your visit to Istanbul one of the most memorable and enjoyable visits.
Although, geologists are still to find its exact period or manner of origin, but that cannot really take away the awe and fantasy experienced by all those taking a trip to the mysterious waterways of Bosphorus. Nearly 130 m deep, 30 km long and 700 m and 3.5 km wide, it is, certainly, an experience not to be missed by any visitor to Istanbul.
No matter whatever its origins might be, the Bosphorus was regarded as stupendous by the ancient sailors in the Greek period around 1000 BC. When they reached Bosphorus, they felt like it was the place where one world ended and another began.
The fact is that even today, Bosphorus, with additions of numerous palaces, castles and exotic mansions by the waterside, is as remarkable and awe-inspiring as it was nearly 3,000 years ago.
There are daily ferries to fetch you along the Bosphorus and take you back. The views on the way from Eminonu towards the middle of the straits are exquisitely fabulous. As the ferry hurriedly moves towards the straits while passing the tine island of Maiden’s Tower, it goes straight towards its first port at Besiktas.
Just on the left is the big façade of Dolmabahce Palace that was completed around 1853. It presents a picture of the grandeur of the Ottoman Empire. However, it remained neglected for nearly 20 years before the emperor fled to Yildiz Palace, situated on the hilltop, to save himself from a possible attack.
The Ciragan Palace, which was completed in 1874, lies just below the Yildiz Palace on the shore. It is now converted into a hotel named Kempinski Hotel. It shared the same fate of neglect; in fact, it was used for even lesser period of time. The Palace, which had been cursed, witnessed the murder of Abdulaziz, a sultan, and incarceration of Murad V, his weak-minded son, before being the venue of the short-lived and ill-fated Ottoman parliament in the year 1908.
The ferry moves under the huge Ataturk Bridge which happens to be the first bridge to join two continents. Just at the bridge’s foot on the European shore is Ortakoy, a small hub of restaurants, open-air coffee houses and a craft market functioning on weekends.
Moving further, we are approached by waterfront suburbs which once were the fishing villages. Located just between these waterfront suburbs are the military buildings on the Asian shores including the Kuleli naval college and the magnificent waterside mansions made of wood. These wooden mansions, also known by the name of ‘yalis’ were made for the late Ottoman dignitaries, princesses and businessmen. There are some yalis which are still occupied by the children or descendents of the original owners.
There still exist some older yalis that were built strictly according to the Ottoman designs, according to which there must be a separation or division between the public divan and the male salamlik as well as the female living areas of the haremlik. It was only in the mid 19th century that the western designs rose to popularity.
Just a little far are the narrowest straits (nearly 700 m) which provide some terrific views over the two fortresses of Anadolu Hisari located on the Asian shore and Rumeli Hisari on the European shore. Both of these fortresses were constructed in a remarkable short period of just four months by Sultan Mehmet II in 1452 before the conquest of the city of Istanbul.
At present, these two fortresses are somewhat overshadowed by the twin towers of the Bridge of Fatih Sultan Mehmet opened in the year 1988.
From this point onwards, the Bosphorus rives seems to become wide enough to help us witness the history that becomes more clearly visible with very few newer buildings rising along the shores of Bosphorus. The last (but not the least, in any way) but one stop on the European shore happens to be Rumeli Kavagi. The presence of few Ottoman and Byzantine fortifications proves the role of this quiet village as being one of the tow posts on the straits. The Byzantine Yoros fortress lies clinging on the opposite shore’s hilltop.
You will have nearly three hours at your disposal before getting into the return ferry. So, you can spend this time to climb the hilltop where lies the famous Byzantine Yoros fortress. You will be more than happy for spending the time and effort in climbing to the Yoros fortress as it provides some of the most magnificent views of the Black Sea. If you feel hungry by this severe workout a top the hill, there is no need to lose heart for there is available a variety of sumptuous mouth watering dishes waiting for you at the several local fish restaurants of the village.
The daily departure time of boats from Eminonu is 10.35 am and 1.35 pm between the months of mid-April till mid-October. These boats make five stops before they terminate nearly one and a half hour later at Anadolu Kavagi.
So, what are you waiting for? Come join the fun by taking a voyage to this another world.
