Mahmutpaşa Bazaar in the middle of Istanbul
Few bazaars feel both as real and surreal as the one leading downhill from the Grand Bazaar toward the Spice Bazaar in Eminönu. Commissioned in the 15th century by Grand Vizier Mahmut Paşa, this frenzied market gives a unique glimpse into the synthesis of East and West, religion and consumerism that underlies modern Turkish culture. Inside the jumbled buildings and brightly lit basements is a bustling world of bargain shopping, where stores selling circumcision costumes stand side by side with those trying to sell discount underwear and fresh sweet corn.
Shoppers are largely left alone to peruse the labyrinth of stores along the hectic main street and its arteries, which sell everything from pajamas to handbags, fabric, headscarves, shoes, cosmetics and elaborately decorated wedding dresses. Alongside brands like Pierre Cardin and Polaris shoes, there are also many wholesale suppliers selling cheap clothing, factory seconds and rip offs; if you have the time to rifle through it all, some of the best deals in the city can be found here.
Bring an adventurous spirit and be prepared to veer off into the unknown, where some of Istanbul’s best kept historical secrets lie. All along Mahmutpaşa is a sprinkling of caravanserais or “hans.” These ancient roadside inns were once used to house travelers who typically entered by camel through a narrow corridor and came out into a large, open courtyard with surrounding stalls for the visitors and their animals and merchandise. These days, clothing, textiles and general kitsch have taken over.
One of the most fascinating of Mahmutpaşa’s hans is Kürkçü Han, the only one of its kind still standing from the time of Mehmet the Conqueror. The han’s expansive courtyard is reminiscent of a German Christmas market, though instead of mulled wine and wieners, the small stalls sell clothes, shoes and brightly colored wedding paraphernalia. Upstairs the stores surrounding the courtyard is where, in among the grape vines and roses, these solid brick walls house quality leather and fur coats and one of the largest selections of wool in Istanbul. The brightly colored balls spill from monumental cabinets and tables as I wander past rightfully skeptical storeowners. As charming as one might find festive sweaters and the like, I say a hushed thank you to my grandmother for never having the desire to knit.
The büfes lining Mahmutpaşa are a good place to rest when the consumerist chaos gets too much. These small cafeterias offer basic food and the chance to play spot the tourist, which isn’t too difficult since they tend to stick to a uniform of beige shorts, tank tops and hiking boots, a combination few Turks would care to wear.
Nearby, a centuries-old Turkish bath has managed to combine shopping with history and dining. The 15th-century Mahmut Paşa Mosque complex is home to one of the more bizarre malls in Istanbul. Inside this historic hamam, with its stained glass windows and marble floors, is a scattering of stores selling children’s clothes. Further back, neon lights and a fake orange tree greet visitors at the Hamam Cafe, which offers a range of homemade Turkish dishes, kebabs and a set lunch menu for just 5 Turkish Liras. There’s a rug store and public toilets on site.
Part of Istanbul’s appeal lies in its ability to shock, surprise and delight even the most city-weary soul. With the heat rising and Ramadan upon us, a little more inspiration is needed to tackle the town and immerse ourselves in the special energy that Istanbul has to offer. A visit to Mahmutpaşa Bazaar may just provide the Red Bull wings we are all after.
Istanbul full of color as Judas trees blossom
İstanbul full of color as Judas trees blossom
When a tree turns purple one morning, know that spring is in the air. This is all the more delightful in Istanbul, where the fragrance of the Judas tree is never far away.
Take a tour of the Bosphorus to see both sides of the city covered in purple. Yes, the Judas trees are blooming now. Don’t wait too long because the flowers disappear as fast as they come -- 20 days is all you have. Turkish poet Ziya Osman Saba once spoke of this, saying: “Düşünceli yürürken bir yol demecinde/Çıkacak önümüzde beyaz dallarda bahar/hatırlatacak bize şen çocukluğumuzu/erguvanlı bir bahçe, mor salkımlı duvar.”
(While walking thoughtfully on a road/spring will put in an appearance/spring will remind us of our joyful childhood/a garden full of Judas flowers and a purple bunch.) If you want to return to years past and your childhood to see the beauty of İstanbul, do so when the Judas trees bloom, as poet Hilmi Yavuz has advised.
People interested in literature or history or those who read books on Byzantine culture know well that İstanbul’s color has since the beginning of time been purple. Author Haluk Dursun reminds us in one of his books, titled “İstanbul’da Yaşama Sanatı” (The Art of Living in İstanbul), that the Byzantine Empire was founded on May 11, which was celebrated as the day the flowers of the Judas trees blossomed in İstanbul. The Ottomans conquered İstanbul on May 29, 1453, which corresponded to the time when Judas trees are in full blossom.
Also, Turkish poet Ahmet Hamdi Tanpınar says in his book “Beş Şehir” (Five Cities) that if there is a flower with which to celebrate, the flowers of the Judas tree come in second only to roses. Judas tree celebrations have been organized every year since 2000. Bosporus tours are held to enjoy the beauty of the Judas trees in İstanbul. Süheyl Ünver, who is among the top promoters of Judas trees, notes that people should see Judas trees through tours of the Bosporus. Seeing Judas trees while walking on a road is an insult to both the Bosporus and to Judas trees, he cautions, however. In 1996, Ünver suggested organizing Judas tree activities in İstanbul; ever since, no one has shown more devotion to this cause than Erguvan İstanbul Association Chairman Hüseyin Emiroğlu.
We started our journey from İstanbul’s European side. Judas trees put in an appearance in Dolmabahçe Palace, but this is only a small sample because far more can be found in Yıldız Park, whose entrance is a little north of Dolmabahçe Palace as you head to Beşiktaş. It is also possible, but rare, to see Judas trees in Ortaköy. Approaching Arnavutköy, we noticed more and more Judas trees. Just around the corner, in Bebek, however, we felt we were in Judas tree heaven, with blue waters below and purple mixing with patches of blue sky above. A bit further north, the imposing stone towers of Rumeli Hisarı rose up high, shrouded in purple. This place and the nearby Aşiyan neighborhood are surrounded with wonderful Judas trees. There are also many Judas trees in İstinye and Emirgan Grove, both of which are favorites among İstanbulites and pleasant places to enjoy stunning views of the Bosporus while spending quality time alone or with family.
The Asian side of İstanbul is no less spectacular. We strongly recommend a walk around Beylerbeyi. Enjoy the Judas trees while drinking tea in popular places such as Hidiv Kasrı (a pavilion located on the Asian side of the Bosporus), the hill in Kanlıca, Mihrabad Grove and Küçüksu Sevda Hill. Vaniköy and Fethi Paşa Grove have pink and purple-colored Judas trees, but they do not have as many trees as can be found around Rumeli Hisarı. If all these are far away, look for the Judas trees in and around Sultanahmet, Halide Edip Adıvar Park in Şişli, at Topkapı Palace, around the Aya İrini (Hagia Irene) Museum and in Gülhane Park, all of which are on the European side. Fenerbahçe Park in Kadıköy and Anadolu Hisarı may also be worth a visit. Both are on the Asian side.
Previous years had dedicated Bosporus tours that allowed you to see as many of the trees as possible, but this year you’re out of luck. Instead, take regular Bosporus tours provided by İstanbul Ferry Lines (İDO). Ferries leave from Eminönü (on the European side) at 2:30 p.m. and from Üsküdar (in Asia) at 2:30 p.m. for a two-hour-long tour. If you have more time, İDO offers six-hour-long Bosporus tours. The longer tour allows you to take in Eminönü, Beşiktaş, Kanlıca, Yeniköy, Sarıyer, Anadolu Kavağı and Rumeli Kavağı. The cost is TL 25 per person. For more details, visit İDO’s website at www.ido.com.tr.
Istanbul’s must-sees
Continental drift ... the Bosphorus and the Hagia Sophia in Istanbul, Turkey.
Explore a little-known palace or take an early morning boat trip on the Bospherus with our guide to the essential Istanbul
The Süleymaniye mosque
The ultimate architectural experience was designed for Süleyman the Magnificent. This wonderful Friday mosque works only if you go in by the front door, not the side door, which is what everyone is encouraged to do. Sinan, the great 16th-century architect, was the absolute master of the framed vista: the modest outer gate leads to the gigantic but austere courtyard gate, which leads to a courtyard about to be submerged in a vast cascade of domes, which leads to a huge wall of grey stone, pierced by windows with miniature tesserae of stained glass, veiled by a curtain of lantern ropes. Fortify yourself first with a bowl of beans at Kanaat (Selmanipak Caddesi, 9). Follow it with a glass of boza (fermented millet) in nearby Vefa Bozacısı (Katip Çelebi Caddesi 104), an impeccable 1920s café with mirrored columns.
Prof Sıddık Sami Onar Caddesi.
Sokullu Mehmet Pasha mosque
Sinan again designed this mosque, just below the Hippodrome. Enter by the front portal, up a marvellous staircase with a pointed arch framing the dome of the ablution fountain, in turn framed by the domes of the mosque. It's even better when it rains and the lead is gleaming. This is a much more intimate affair than Süleymaniye, built not for the Grand Vizier but his wife, Süleyman's granddaughter. Just around the corner stands Küçük Ayasofya, a stunning Byzantine church, now converted into a mosque.
Sehit Çesmesi Sok, Sultanahmet.
Yıldız Palace
The Sale Kiosk of the Yıldız Palace is perhaps Europe's most astonishing Victorian guesthouse. And nobody can stay there, unless – like Kaiser Wilhelm II, Churchill or De Gaulle, for whom the state bed was specially extended – they are invited. But it is open for the public to visit. It is an attractive if rather steep walk through woods to get there. Inside, tiptoe through room after glorious room until you emerge in the ballroom, with the second largest carpet in the world reflected in a long wall of art nouveau mirrors.
Barbaros Bulvarı Yıldız Park, Besiktas.
Walk in the hills
Take a bus from Sariyer, the city's northernmost district, to the hilltop above. Get out a few bends after passing Koç university into unspoilt countryside where there are migrating birds in spring and autumn. If you're feeling energetic you can walk down the hill all the way back to Sariyer.
Princes' Islands
A picnic on Heybeliada or Büyükada, two of the Princes' Islands, close to Istanbul in the sea of Marmara, makes a serene break from the busy city. On Heybeliada, the recommended spot is a small chapel on the hills above the large naval academy in the middle of the island. The end of the island is like a prow of a huge leafy ship. The other spot is Varan on Büyükada, or the best beach, at Eskibag Halka Acik Plaji. This summer a museum dedicated to the islands' heritage will open.
Catch the IDO ferry from the Kabatas (2.80TL each way, 2 hours).
Boat ride
Take a taxi to the Sarıyer ferry dock on the Bosphorus and catch the 7am commuter boat from Sariyer into the city. (You could also pick it up in Yeniköy or Istiniye, if you sleep in.) The boat is almost deserted and the Bosphorus lovely in the morning light.
Art and nightlife
Don't miss Beyoglu – Istanbul's turn-of-the-century downtown – where art galleries jostle with bars and meyhanes (traditional restaurants). Rodeo Gallery (Lüleci Hendek Caddesi 12, +90 212 2935800), and its neighbour DEPO (same address) are unmissable, as is Banu Cennetoglu's space, BAS (Nuri Ziya Sokak 7). Meanwhile the Pera museum (Mesrutiyet Caddesi 65) offers a fantastic collection of orientalist art as well as excellent temporary exhibitions and film seasons. Sidestep the expensive bars and quench your thirst at the lovably eccentric Hotel Buyuk Londra's terrace bar (Mesrutiyet Caddesi 53) or the new Marmara Pera Hotel before descending into the melee of Asmalımescit for fish and rakı at Refik (Sofyalı Sokak 10) or Yakup 2 (Asmalı Mescit Sokak 35).
Day trip
Close to Istanbul, the hauntingly beautiful city of Edirne is Turkey's true gateway to Europe and the Balkans. Home to Sinan's masterpiece, the Selimiye mosque, as well as stunning examples of Ottoman architecture, it remains well off the beaten track. The Eski mosque and Ottoman bridges are astonishing. If possible, find a way into the neglected Murad II mosque, with its unique, Chinese-inspired tiles.
John Scott, editor, and Thomas Roueché, contributing editor, of Turkey's English language Cornucopia Magazine
The Guardian, Saturday 10 April 2010